tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40504455473596030442024-03-13T23:21:30.711+02:003 Months in IsraelThis is a place for me to share my stories, thoughts, and everything else with everyone (not just those fortunate enough to be on facebook)Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-90065383054424269942011-07-19T23:29:00.002+03:002011-07-19T23:29:30.408+03:00Humanity<br />
from one hand to the other, given not a trace<br />
we suffer we joy we find such reaches to employ<br />
all the feelings granted to us, we harken upon each one<br />
we strive we linger we hold fast and fall upon<br />
<br />
i take it till my dying day, that each of us must pay<br />
the toll in heart break the dawn of new days<br />
the pain and joys we suffer<br />
am i not alone in these over crowded world<br />
are i one with the masses<br />
with the grotesque and the adored<br />
<br />
a lone person smiling<br />
a crowd of crying mourners<br />
a flock in prayer an uplifted sayer<br />
our voices cry for peace<br />
yet slumbering we discover our internal is at war<br />
<br />
we grind into the dirt we cleanse every pore<br />
we sit with flies not twitching<br />
we wash each and switching<br />
alternating from health to dust<br />
from rich into poor<br />
we dive each time headlong<br />
between activity and stupor<br />
<br />
my fellow man, most precious lady<br />
these emotions all i've felt<br />
loss beyond reckoning<br />
and joy untaken and uplifted<br />
sadness at a single fault<br />
and smiles secret and shared<br />
i cannot walk past a single one<br />
and feel i've never cared.Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-65437685162401935732011-05-12T15:46:00.000+03:002011-05-13T23:40:28.094+03:00Jordan; Aman and Petra<p>If you are reading this, I will assume you are also reading Rayna's blog and her post about her trip to Belarus to lead seders there during Passover. Well, with Rayna leaving town for a week, I decided I might as well do the same and take an opportunity to travel.</p>
<p>Some backstory: A tourist visa in Israel is good for three months. My stay - three months and three days. Thus I HAD to leave the country at least once and upon reentry get a new tourist visa for three months. So I took the opportunity when it presented itself.</p>
<p>Sharon is a Rabbinical student at HUC, and one of Rayna's colleagues. Her boyfriend Adam is a student at Hebrew University studying biblical history. I've gotten to know both of them pretty well over the past few months, and had some incredibly interesting discussion with Adam. He is like a walking talking insightful answer machine for all the questions that pop into my head here in Israel. Turns out it works in Jordan too.</p>
<p>A week or two before Rayna's departure (a few days before Passover actually started) Sharon and Adam mentioned their plans to go to Jordan, and I jumped. As the date drew nearer I made my bus reservations and hotel reservations online (it's cool, the bus system sends you a text message with your confirmation number, then you enter that into the machine at the station). I was to leave one day before Rayna, and get back on the first evening of passover with time to get to seder.</p>
<p>So we took the bus to Eilat, on the Red Sea, the southern most part of Israel, then taxi'd to the border. Walking across is a cinch, but you have to pay about $30 to exit Israel. From there we taxi'd to Aqaba, the Jordanian town mirroring Eilat. Both are beautiful beach towns. We picked up our rental and drove immediately to a gas station. When you rent in Jordan the tank is empty! You return it the same way. Weird, I know.</p>
<p>From there we drove back North all the way to Amman (which is actually North of Jerusalem by a little bit - reason for this is complex and involves the visa requirements at different points of entry to and from the countries). We found a parking spot on the busy market streets of Amman and hoofed it to our Hotel. It is always strange to arrive anywhere at night, but doing so in a rental, in another country, that speaks a foreign language, that has in the past been hostile, and with new travel partners, well it should be a bigger challenge that it was. It was cake. Except for figuring out where to park, we found our hotel, checked in, found Adam's friend (who was also staying there), got a recommendation for dinner, and ate an AMAZING mixed grill dinner for 3 for like $14.</p>
<p>Amman is a beautiful city. It has it's challenges, and is very different from the more Western feeling cities of Israel, and of course the US, but it is also charming, and friendly. Sweet smells (and some others...) of delicious food, new and different things for sale (and many many familiar things), friendly people, ancient ruins, modern conventions, and all very reasonably priced. Truth be told the people were some of the friendliest I have met.</p>
<p><img title="Minarette tops.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvV6s7pSEI/AAAAAAAAE48/3ahWTvSVj_s/Minarette%20tops.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0009" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Now, I wasn't advertising that I was Jewish, but I wasn't hiding it either. i was honest with everyone, told them where I was from, but didn't offer any more info than I needed. But it never seemed like an issue either way. I hope this is true to some degree, and not just my optimism, but maybe people are beginning to see that we are all really much more similar than we are different. Semitic people, Arabs, descendants of Abraham, half-brothers, cousins... monotheists. Dark skinned, argumentative, fun loving, hummus eaters all of us!</p>
<p>So I felt very comfortable the whole time.</p>
<p><img title="Roman Theater.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvV9V4UXlI/AAAAAAAAE5A/OaUfsQ8fajQ/Roman%20Theater.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0036" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Next morning we checked out of our hotel, brought our bags to our car and walked through the city a bit, to the Roman Theater, and the Greek Theater. Around and about the shops in the old part of town where we stayed. we ate at an upscale spot with a great rooftop terrace (if you know me then you know i'm a sucker for terraces) with a great view.</p>
<p><img title="Sharon and Adam.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvV_utQLtI/AAAAAAAAE5E/Bk6BWxFK25E/Sharon%20and%20Adam.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0072" width="600" height="398" /> The story gets a little more interesting here. We headed south to the Amman Airport to pick up Andrea, Adam's sister.</p>
<p>In hearing about this plan from the start I'd made the rational assumption that Andrea must be at least as adventurous as Adam, since she was flying into Jordan from the states to meet her brother. There are always potential complications in a complex pickup operation like this, so i figured she was a traveler to even attempt this arrangement. On the ride there Adam assured me it was the opposite and that if he wasn't there waiting for her she would be quite upset. Well kudos, Andrea, for taking the leap and flying way outside your comfort zone. But don't worry, dear reader, we made it. And I'm glad we had a little extra time! They are building an amazing new airport literally in between and around the old one. It is a complex glass, steel, and concrete form, but entirely curving, and arching. Much like other Arab structures this one emulates the sheltering tent like structures native to this ancient culture.</p>
<p><img title="New Amman ap.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWB_P2XxI/AAAAAAAAE5I/FgJCgWmh4Rc/New%20Amman%20ap.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0086" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>With Andrea secured, we got back in the car and headed south... to our ultimate destination, and one of the places I've been wanting to go see for YEARS: Petra.</p>
<p>Legendary city of stone. Ancient mystery, magnificent unparalleled masonry, unique in the world. Petra, just hours away, we were on our way.</p>
<p>The desert highway, rolling, burnt earth, and pipeline snaking forever alongside. We turn off onto an older, smaller desert highway, that begins cutting through hills and valleys, shifting up and down, from lush to arid and back again. Descending down towards the unknown, excitement brewed within me.</p>
<p>Finally, we round a bend and the road hugs a steep hillside, we descend towards a town that seems to reach up, beckoning, signs and light, many languages, banks, shops, all the elements of a major tourist destination. Much like Aquas Calientes in Peru, modern entry and way-station for Machu Pichu, or even the town of Moab, Utah, the base for so many hikers and bikers in Arches National Park , all these towns feel the same in some weird detached way.</p>
<p>Our Hotel, or Hostel more accurately, is in this town, on the hill opposite the large brown red stone labyrinth that hides the ancient city of Petra. You can see the mound below, obscured in mist and the diminishing light. The sun began to set as we stashed our bags in our rooms, and i managed to route out yet another rooftop terrace to try to capture the mystery of this place. The excitement inside me, the anticipation, the known energy of the unknown awaiting, pulsating in my chest.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0092.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWEWBQVVI/AAAAAAAAE5M/qmok4cr372A/DSC_0092.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0092" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0095.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWGHU9HJI/AAAAAAAAE5Q/DJ3HY5HHlYU/DSC_0095.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0095" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0099.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWIpk4hcI/AAAAAAAAE5U/HnPqQax_dj8/DSC_0099.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0099" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0106.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWLa9_bnI/AAAAAAAAE5Y/DFNpXumwag4/DSC_0106.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0106" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>We dined at the hostel on their terrace, then moved into the Bedouin tent for some hookah. As the night grew thicker so did the crowd, and some local Bedouins arrived and began to play traditional music on the Oud (like a guitar but with a fully rounded body and a twangy, lively, eastern sound). Yes, we danced, and yes, we talked with the Bedouins, later into the night than I had thought reasonable for such a big next day, but we were wild, and we were wired, and we were all just so damn excited, i didn't think I'd be able to sleep much anyhow.</p>
<p>I did sleep, but I woke up as I tend to, before my alarm, wide awake, ready, and so excited. Shower, pack back up, and back on the terrace for breakfast. Delicious, but the flavors seemed to wink out on my tongue as soon as I got the food in my mount and my mind back on the day ahead. Soon Adam and Sharon joined me, but I knew and understood that Andrea would be feeling the effects of 9 hours of time zones, and when she roused soon after, i have to say I was impressed, if unable to show it due to the implacable anticipation coursing through me. <br /><img title="DSC_0108.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWNg9CV5I/AAAAAAAAE5c/K2goxid8EiQ/DSC_0108.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0108" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>We drove down, Adam guiding and driving since he'd been here once before, to the park entrance and parked on a sidewalk (totally normal here, I assure you). Words began to fail me as they do now as I try to type. So i will let photos speak for me, and try to provide some captions to tell you what they are. You'll be able to ascertain our day, as these are chronologically placed. The entrance hike in, the stunning delivery of the Treasury approached through a narrow chasm, the unbelievable wall street, the ascent up to the sacrificial altar, the Urn Palace, the treacherous donkey drivers, and the Monastery. Unparalleled in all the world. Enjoy. I did.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0119.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWQPOKufI/AAAAAAAAE5g/eZf00tLN8PE/DSC_0119.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0119" width="398" height="600" /><img title="DSC_0122.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWSsD-DXI/AAAAAAAAE5k/dEGkYUpvjXA/DSC_0122.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0122" width="600" height="398" /><img title="DSC_0160.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWVNR9B_I/AAAAAAAAE5o/pPz49047fBE/DSC_0160.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0160" width="398" height="600" /><img title="Petra HDR.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWXbbMREI/AAAAAAAAE5s/2lm-ws5HlEw/Petra%20HDR.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Petra HDR" width="401" height="600" /><img title="Petra-Treasury.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWassrX3I/AAAAAAAAE5w/CA4W77Jbbwg/Petra-Treasury.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Petra Treasury" width="398" height="600" /><img title="DSC_0279.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWdMm0wAI/AAAAAAAAE50/hhSzjZCI4QU/DSC_0279.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0279" width="600" height="398" /><img title="DSC_0289.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWgQ-mo9I/AAAAAAAAE54/4KM9gOiKoZA/DSC_0289.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0289" width="600" height="398" /><img title="DSC_0358.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWjWz82pI/AAAAAAAAE58/4gYltmAHGSY/DSC_0358.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0358" width="398" height="600" /><img title="DSC_0433.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWl5FzuFI/AAAAAAAAE6A/QQaMnXi1uxY/DSC_0433.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0433" width="600" height="398" /><img title="DSC_0443.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TcvWp4IFLII/AAAAAAAAE6E/XgsDWe0gYDs/DSC_0443.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0443" width="600" height="398" /></p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-47608857390164527472011-05-02T14:07:00.001+03:002011-05-02T14:42:25.542+03:00Update - holocaust memorial dayLooking out from this perch i see the walls of the Old City, the buildings of the modern Jerusalem, and in the distance, a valley as old as time, filled with history. We look back through time and see the blood spilled, the tears shed, the people conquered, and brief moments of revelation and joy. But over it all is cast a pallor of war. Death and loss, pain echoing down nerves spun of memory and hope that we will avoid such catastrophe again.<br /><br />Today is the day in Israel when we remember and mourn the holocaust. At ten am a horn sounded throughout Israel and everywhere, everyone stopped. And stood. In silence for one minute. I was with the HUC crowd, for a prayer service after which we all went outside for the moment. Standing on the street corner the horn sounded, and quickly everyone realized to be quiet. A bus pulled over in front of us and stopped. At first i was dismayed to be assaulted by the fumes and sound if it's chugging diesel, but then i saw inside, it was still and everyone was standing. I looked around, and construction workers stopped their pounding, and stood facing the walls of the Old City, shopkeepers and customers came outside, and stood in mutual silence. <br /><br />Time stretched, everywhere I looked people stopped, standing, heads bowed or eyes east, the wailing of the horn a voice for a nation. Remembering our loss. Feeling a mutual pain and hoping for a future without a fear of this ever happening again. <br /><br />I must go back now a few hours to the walk into campus before the service. As we walked we were joined by classmate and friend Jay Levine who told us the news about the death and recovery of the body of the tyrant and murder Osama BinLaden. <br /><br />Can you sense this emotional connection already? I was feeling it more each moment as we sat and stood praying for life, and remembering our loss during the service for the memorial day. Today we have finally ended the tyranny of a madman, the news dumped on me without a moment to consider, celebrate, mourn, or even realize. And it struck me, how the news of killing Hitler might have felt, how the relief of the end of such disaster as the holocaust would have been received. Did we Americans just receive our recompense for 9/11? Is Osama the murder's welcome end the American version of an end we Jews were denied by Hitler's pathetic suicide?<br /><br />I ponder. I have wanted the death of Osama for many years, which is an unusual thing for me. Justice and compassion must always temper our thinking, but this murderer deserved tenfold the pain he inflicted upon innocent victims. And now here it arrives, on a day we mark in Israel as the day of mourning, an event that must be venerated if not celebrated. A modern day tyrant wiped from the earth, and we are all better off without him. <br /><br />Closure will never exist for the victims, and the relatives of the victims of the holocaust. There is no way to rationally understand or come to terms with such awful destruction and despicability. It is inhuman. And the numbers from that disaster defy sense as well. It is a wound that cannot heal, it is a dismemberment of history and of faith in humanity. <br /><br />We Americans however have finally killed the tyrant Osama. Closure can and will come. We can and will win this war, and we can heal and move on. The buildings can be rebuilt, and sense can be restored. I will celebrate this act of violence toward the murderer, as i would imagine the murder of Hitler would have been celebrated as well. And i will mourn the loss of generations of Jews, Gypsies, Russians, Europeans, Asians, and Americans. All at once in a maelstrom of emotion only a stiff drink can resolve. <br /><br />In my heart, all of this and all of you; sufferers, soldiers, celebrators, and strangers. May we move on, may we move forward, and end chapters of tyranny, murder, suffering, and sadness, and write new chapters of collaboration, progress, and peace. <br /><br />- with Shalom from Israel<br /><br /><p class='blogpress_location'>Location:<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Jerusalem,%20Israel%4031.770953%2C35.221918&z=10'>Jerusalem, Israel</a></p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-40143332992350047452011-04-27T12:48:00.001+03:002011-04-27T12:48:51.587+03:00Ashkelon - Ancestors and ancient history.<p>There is always so much more that we don't know, than what we think we know, and even more than we actually know. This is a story about my own unknown past, and a past that we will never truly understand.</p>
<p>My dear Mom, what a wonderful person, and what a wonderful mom. She always gives, and I will never be able to give back as much as I'd like to, and not just cause she gave me life. She gives me so much more. Well we all lost some family last year. My Grandparents Anne and Moshe Shapiro passed within 41 days of each other in the sad and beautiful way people who love each other go. I miss them often, and know they are at peace and that their love blesses us all who know it. With their passing last year I realized what a profoundly lucky guy I am in having my parents so strong and near. Seeing both of my parents lose their parents made me realize how hard it will be for me to say goodbye to them when that time comes. It is a marker of life, and a transition that changes a person's position and role whether they are ready or not.</p>
<p>I didn't know enough about my Grandparents, and I won't be able to ask them any more. However, I am lucky enough to have parents and aunts and uncles who I can ask as many questions to as they will put up with. And I am glad I can because the story of my family is as interesting as any story I have ever heard, and is uniquely mine! Before my Grandpa followed my Grandma to the ever after, he moved to Portland for a few weeks. I got to see him often in those weeks and asked him all about his parents, and his past. And amazingly enough, much of his life took place here, in Israel.</p>
<p>Moshe was born in the USA, as was his sister Ruth. Their parents however were born in the 'old world' of the diaspora, and moved to The States where they met as so many hopeful immagrants have over the last few centuries. My Great Grandfather was from Odessa, Ukrain, and my Great Grandmother was from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prussia">Prussia (the area of modern Germany that was once part of Poland, and before that, a contested region as there has ever been)</a>. They met in the states, married, had two kids and moved to Palestine.</p>
<p><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palestine">Palestine</a> - that is a name that harbors as many misconceptions and historical myth as any in history, but put simply, it is this area, Israel, between times when it was known as Israel. Now the name Palestine is confusing because it was created by people who didn't live here (maybe) or by a historical reference that is not really pronounceable, or a few other myths, legends, invaders, pilgrims, etc... Confusing, yes, a name, definitely, and an idea then as now, without doubt. My Great Grandparents moved here to do what so many have done over the ages; to create a land in the form of an idea.</p>
<p>They came here with their kids to help tame the land. Back in the early parts of the 20th century Palestine was a swampy mess. It had been a war torn land for so long, that the spirograph of civilization's history here is too confusing to comprehend. So let me over simplify by saying there have been many amazing civilizations here, and as many destructions and genocides to match. But 80 or so years ago, you could make a life here, and take part in the hope of creating a new land to match the dream of what Israel is in the hearts of her people.</p>
<p>Three years ago my Mom and her brothers' Joel and Mark all traveled to Israel with my Grandpa Moshe. It was a trip through the family history for all of them, Moshe the most, but also for the siblings. In fact the whole of my Mom's brothers and sisters, lived in Israel when they were kids with my Grandparents. So in 2008 (?) the four of them came back to traverse this memory and discover the places they had connections to as a way of discovering themselves. They lived in Haifa that year, but it was not the first time my Grandpa lived there, but that story comes later.</p>
<p>My Grandpa lived in Jerusalem when he was young - literally 1 block from where I am sitting, and living right now. I kid you not. I just turned my head and looked out the window as I type and I can see the third floor apartment where he and Ruth, and their parents lived decades ago.... (chills). But they made their home in another city, called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashkelon">Ashkelon</a>, and that is where this story takes us now.</p>
<p>My Mom has been carrying the burden of her parents passing heavily these past few months, and I know she has been seeking ways to help make this difficult transition. One way to find peace for her, and for my Grandparents was our mission this day - to go to Ashkelon and see my Great Grandparent's graves, the house they built, and maybe get a taste of the life they lived here years ago.</p>
<p>So Mom, Rick, Rayna and I got in the rental car and headed West, down out of the mountains, out towards Tel Aviv and the sea, and then South, to a point that is just North of Gaza strip, to an ancient and modern city called Ashkelon.</p>
<p>As we came in towards the city we diverted to the North, not taking the standard route towards the city center. We curled around and came in above the city on a long curving road with big meadows on each side. In the distance on our left sat a copse of trees, and it was there, in a small cemetery our goal lay. It was harder to get there than to see it but eventually we made it on a dirt road with no signs. I didn't feel like I was trespassing on this unmarked sea of wheat to this island of trees rising above, but I also didn't feel like I belonged there. That all changed over the course of the next hour.</p>
<p>I parked the car in the only place I could, just off the road, and as the engine died the peace of this place flowed over us all. It was quiet in a windy way. The waving of the grass, the wind in the branches, and an endless time of sun worn stone, graves covered in the dust of Israel, the grit of a dry land, the accumulated leaves and petals of the old, gnarled vegetation. Time here was thick upon the air, and sweet. Honey colored sun, warm eternal winds across our faces, and far away the city across the fields all around.</p>
<p>Mom knew where to find my Great Grandparents. Their graves tucked away and in with the others, surrounded by wild growing plants in the tan dry earth. Simple and stone. Israeli graves are marked by stone rectangles that look like tombs above ground with angled horizontal headstones marking the lives of the deceased.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0114.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TbfmOmocpdI/AAAAAAAAE4U/8qwP0_96R3s/DSC_0114.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0114" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>It took me some time to feel my place here.</p>
<p>Eventually I began to feel my connection. My family, lives that I'll never know, but that created the history of which I am a part. Who were these people? I never met them, I'll never know them... but slowly I began to feel, this is my history, these are my ancestors, this is my land. These are my graves.</p>
<p>My Mom knelt down, a hand on each grave laying side by side in timeless rest. She laid a part of her peace to rest, and spread the peace to my Grandparents so that they may all lie together in peace. Parents, children, grand children, and me.. great grandchildren.. and that day, Rayna and I together the loose ends of history waving in the wind of chance, to be tied together, to run our course, but now another link back illuminated i my living memory. I may never know them but I know now a new part of myself.<br /><img title="DSC_0139.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TbfmRaftM-I/AAAAAAAAE4Y/rCOpDZAN-yc/DSC_0139.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0139" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>_________________________________________________________</p>
<p>We took our time and when we were all ready, we drove on into the modern city of Ashkelon. We stopped by the house my Great Grandparent's built. It is a charming area like Alameda in the Bay Area where Rick's Parent's live. Residential and sweet. Small curving streets, parks nearby and the smell of the sea. From there we decided to explore the history of this place farther back.... waaaaaaay back into the times of ancient history where stood the Ancient city of Ashkelon.</p>
<p>The ancient city was walled by a giant triangular wall (imagine a wall that is much larger at the base, so wide in fact it looks like a triangle in section) that arced around the city, ending at the sea enclosing a port. The walls have spanned eons and at different times had additional walls on top, but all of these have fallen over the ages and mostly only the ancient fortifications remain. Included in this wall, and marking the entry to the park contained within, one passes through the OLDEST ARCH IN THE WORLD</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC_0006.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TbfmTluUbrI/AAAAAAAAE4c/vZsGnIo2ygY/DSC_0006.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0006" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>or perhaps the oldest arched city gate in the world. It is unclear, but what is clear is that you walk through this ancient city gate, which is a badass arch that still stands to this day. It is OLD and made of mud bricks. Ashkelon is so old it is the oldest port city in Israel, it is where the term "shekel" comes from (a unit of weight that is now the monetary denomination in Israel) and is where Scallions are from! Who knew this rather unfamiliar place is so important in history and in our modern vocabulary! We also found some flowers.</p>
<p><img title="Finding grace in Ashkelon.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TbfmW0VWZVI/AAAAAAAAE4g/8HNIkXiSbsg/Finding%20grace%20in%20Ashkelon.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Finding grace in Ashkelon" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="Beauty in beauty. Life never knew such yellow. What a wonderful moment..jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TbfmZsm6WFI/AAAAAAAAE4k/1dpBF48eB4w/Beauty%20in%20beauty.%20%20Life%20never%20knew%20such%20yellow.%20%20What%20a%20wonderful%20moment..jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Beauty in beauty Life never knew such yellow What a wonderful moment" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0057.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/Tbfmb6kyOuI/AAAAAAAAE4o/JpSiYV0bi3A/DSC_0057.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0057" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0119.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/Tbfme_qB1YI/AAAAAAAAE4s/uu6J-Hma3s8/DSC_0119.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0119" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>So we explored. It is a large area, 150 acres, enclosed by these giant walls, and within are ruins of this once thriving metropolis. All over there are ancient columns being used as parking lot barriers, tie-beams for newer walls, and as junk just laying on the ground and on the beach!!!! It's CRAZY! Here are huge marble columns from antiquity just laying about... if I can figure how to get one off the beach and onto a boat you'll see it eventually in my house.</p>
<p>So we came home after an amazing day and at hummus basar. Basically bowls of hummus with things like seasoned ground meat, or caramalized onions in the middle on top of the hummus. It is GOOD.</p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-11054240449342432142011-04-27T11:19:00.001+03:002011-04-27T11:19:03.418+03:00A whirlwind of activity - Breakdown of fun<p>OK, wow. So much has happened, and I've been too busy doing it to write till now. Things are settling back down and Rayna is settling in for finals so I will do my best to get it all written. There may be some chronological errors and ommisions so please bear with me.</p>
<p>Let's go back a few steps to my last post. My Mom and Rick arrived in town and we went to Qumran to see the place where the Dead Sea Scrolls were written, hidden, and discovered. That was a WHILE ago. Rayna and I had one other big adventure with them before Mark and Kate Rodman arrived for about 10 or so days to travel Israel with my Mom and Rick. This blog now picks up with that adventure.</p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-41123905350366851982011-04-04T13:24:00.001+03:002011-04-04T13:24:19.873+03:00Qumran - Dead Sea Scrolls<p>Around 2000 years ago, Jerusalem was a city of Jewish people. Much is known about this period, and much more is unknown. Before this time we have certain accounts, and some are considered fairy tales, while others are much more factual, corroborated, and to me, interesting. The scrolls discovered near the Dead Sea, at a place called Qumran date from just before the year 0. Experts attest 150 to around 75 BCE. For more information, visit the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_Sea_Scrolls">wikipedia</a> page and click to your heart's content. If you are interested in history, religion, the Middle East, this gem has it all.</p>
<p>Qumran is an incredibly intersting site. It is an enclave of scholars. Dedicated religious men who gathered there for potlitical reasons in order to be away from The Temple. The 2nd temple to be specific. This is the time of Herod, the time of the High Priests of The Temple, and an increase in political aspects of Jewish life. Back then, if you wanted to pray you had to go to The Temple and generally sacrifice a perfectly good animal. Or two, or three, or many many more.</p>
<p>These people at Qumran were known as the Essenes, and they felt that the dogma was getting out of hand. There is a letter preserved form this collection that specifically states this political position! it is amazing. Anyhow, I could go on and on because the tour my Mom and Rick, Rayna and I and the rest of her class went on was guided by her professor. Rabbi David Levine is an expert on this subject and teaches the Biblical and Late Antiquities history courses at Hebrew Union College. AMAZING! What an fantastic experience. it was electrifying and so educational.</p>
<p><img title="Mom and Rick.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmbxy02wII/AAAAAAAAE2o/EG2twhLZWmc/Mom%20and%20Rick.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0003" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>So here we all are, on the tour and David took us through each area explaining not just what we were seeing (mikvas - ritual baths, cisterns and aquaducts, group eating areas and kitchens, and other architectural features) but how they are important to this site, and how they inform us about what was happening here and how this site was used. On top of all that David elucidated why this is all so important, and what it teaches us about Judaism then and now.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0009.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmb1t7SQiI/AAAAAAAAE2w/pyKpg1d7kyg/DSC_0009.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0009" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Feeling pretty cool after my "knock offs" joke. Some sunglasses in the bottom of a deep cistern below.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0010.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmb4gYk-rI/AAAAAAAAE20/LFE3rseeNvc/DSC_0010.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0010" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Look at my girlfriend! She's lovely!</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0013.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmb74ywzgI/AAAAAAAAE24/AktS3eCNi_s/DSC_0013.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0013" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Rabbi David Levine explaining the mikva. A mikva is a ritual bath. Below him is a pool with steps leading in to the very bottom. Because of the steps we can tell this is not a water storage cistern, because the steps take up 1/2 the volume. Also the two separate steps would separate the clean people from those entering the bath. This facility housed around 120 Men. It seems the major use was scriptural. The two most important rooms were the group dining hall and the scriptorium where parchment was produced and the writing was performed.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0028.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmb_BWNmdI/AAAAAAAAE28/LvL_BCyaRY8/DSC_0028.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0028" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>I'm pointing at Cave 4 where the many scrolls were discovered in their sealed clay jars. Apparently when the Romans decided to sack Jerusalem they stopped here and many of the scrolls were secreted away into these caves. Now these caves weren't just good hiding places, they were also the residential quarters of the men at Qumran. However this cave looks pretty hard to get to, but who knows what the topography was like then.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0031.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmcBgmCDnI/AAAAAAAAE3A/DPquH3XGDOQ/DSC_0031.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0031" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>After the tour and a nice outdoor lunch we brought, David led us up the sloping desert to the cliffs.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0044.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmcEYxKElI/AAAAAAAAE3E/mCNuK2lu65c/DSC_0044.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0044" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>It is a stark, dry, and sharp landscape. The stone crumbles easily into shards that can be quite painful to the hastily placed hand. We all helped each other around dangerous terrain. This wadi (river bed) becomes deluged with flash floods a few times a year. The Essenes knew this and built an aqueduct. Just above the complex in the flats is a fantastic wadi with three high waterfalls. This time of year they are all dry, but during the rain they flood. With this knowledge the inhabitants built aquaducts to bring the flashes of water into the complex and the deep cisterns and baths below.</p>
<p>At the top of our ascent we came to the flat area between falls 1 and 2 where the aqueduct terminates. Some of us decided to scramble up and crawl through the man made tunnel aqueduct and onto some amazing bouldering terrain.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0049.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmcG4xFZ0I/AAAAAAAAE3I/ZarvGmPPJVc/DSC_0049.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0049" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>You never know what you'll find in these caves.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0071.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmcJYhsx-I/AAAAAAAAE3M/qEXl8K1Xxgg/DSC_0071.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0071" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Rayna and everyone was feeling the effects of the sun in this hot below sea level desert. But still smiling!</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0075.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmcMG6tRSI/AAAAAAAAE3Q/nbxf2iZmNsE/DSC_0075.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0075" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>David explains more about the aqueduct features and feats of engineering.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0085.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmcPJeHPlI/AAAAAAAAE3U/c9taOFTTjFg/DSC_0085.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0085" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>I love jumping off things.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0108.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmcSxD1mCI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/yxT3p9CrJ1I/DSC_0108.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0108" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>A short dusty hike back to the complex at the end of the day. Serously people, read that wiki page and discover this time capsule from just before the year zero. It is incredible to see and be in buildings and caves occupied by these wonderful historians.</p>
<p>Thanks for reading!</p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-25029696384669787112011-04-04T12:32:00.001+03:002011-04-04T12:32:52.620+03:00Citadel of David? That's what they call it.<p>I got to go to David's Citadel with Rayna's hebrew class. Aside from the language exhibit, I didn't understand much since the tour was in Hebrew. The language exhibit is amazing though and it traces the histories of written language through the eons. Highly recommended.</p>
<p>The citadel is a walled fortress built over many periods and by different people. David never lived here. Yes, there was a mote, and it had alligators.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0804.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmQEaVpubI/AAAAAAAAE2I/792pLNQTQ78/DSC_0804.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0804" width="398" height="600" /></p>
<p>The Tower of David, it is a minaret for a mosque.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0781.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmQF3M5AxI/AAAAAAAAE2M/roSGvHgqAEA/DSC_0781.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0781" width="398" height="600" /></p>
<p>A round table covered in sand, with a projection from above that charts the history of the letters. AMAZING</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0786.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmQHDjfYOI/AAAAAAAAE2Q/vc_g2-VcRe0/DSC_0786.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0786" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>A classic view from the top, with the golden dome over The Rock dominating the scene. Beautiful.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0805.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmQIqt7DMI/AAAAAAAAE2U/Nd2-FhQvtbk/DSC_0805.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0805" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>A look inside the citadel. Remains from previous years jumble the interior but leave the mark of history. At night there is a light and sound show that is supposed to be quite impressive.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0812.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmQKWwM8bI/AAAAAAAAE2Y/sKk4GbUtVag/DSC_0812.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0812" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Requisite shot of me and my beautiful lady.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0841.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmQNfu8k3I/AAAAAAAAE2c/KWZL-mbsq4A/DSC_0841.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0841" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Dale Chihuly chandelier in the entry tower. The light from the high windows illuminates it beautifully.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0845.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZmQQaVfTRI/AAAAAAAAE2g/u4J33riviLg/DSC_0845.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0845" width="398" height="600" /></p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-6657762097353271002011-03-23T18:30:00.001+02:002011-03-23T18:30:50.508+02:00Ramparts, a recapI believe I left off last week with the cliffhanger of sorts, my friend Danyl and I were to walk the ramparts. The ramparts are the walls of the Old City. As a walled city, the ramparts refers to the top of wall where city defenders would take position to fire arrows, hurl rocks, spears, and various furniture down atop invaders. I am sure boiling oil and other nasty stuff was tossed off too. It is a great way to see the city, both old and new.<br />
<br />
Entrance is 16 NIS and starts at Jaffa Gate which is the main entrance on the western side of the Old City. Pictures will say it all best, but the sites where very impressive. A melange of old world technology, historical juxtaposition, everyday modern life, and plenty of mystery.<br />
<img alt="DSC 0086" border="0" height="212" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tGufhIFI/AAAAAAAAEy4/iD5E3f0taq8/DSC_0086.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: right;" title="DSC_0086.jpg" width="320" /><br />
The walk atop the ramparts is precarious at times, with many small diversions onto raised or outcropping sections of the walls. The stone is the ubiquitous Jerusalem stone; hard, kaki, dressed or undressed, it is the fabric of this place, and that means hard and bright, and most of all, enduring.<br />
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<img alt="DSC 0082" border="0" height="159" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tJEIfdWI/AAAAAAAAEzA/ouDrcdMz1dA/DSC_0082.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0082.jpg" width="240" /><br />
Many interesting symbols appear while walking here. These mosaics are in the flooring of a Christian compound. Much of the Old City is occupied by such compounds, and our ramparts walk took us around and past many unidentifiable sects.<br />
<br />
Danyl and I enjoyed smoking our cuban cigars while atop these ramparts. I have to say it felt good, like we had in some way conquered the city ourselves and enjoyed a congratulatory smoke while taking in the views.<br />
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<img alt="DSC 0094" border="0" height="79" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tKczjsII/AAAAAAAAEzE/Zb5CRpSDdJg/DSC_0094.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0094.jpg" width="120" /><br />
<img alt="DSC 0097" border="0" height="79" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tLa83PFI/AAAAAAAAEzI/F5VZ2S4o2gM/DSC_0097.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: right;" title="DSC_0097.jpg" width="120" /><br />
The ramparts took us along the top of the New Gate, Damascus Gate, Lion Gate and ended at the Gold Gate, just north of the Temple Mount where the Dome of the Rock sits. At the Damascus gate we saw some of the ongoing repair to these walls. In a brief yet interesting discussion I learned that the materials used to repair the paving stones that had come loose had to be similar to the existing materials. Well I'm glad to see this common sense sort of approach is being used to maintain such a magnificent edifice and essential part of history.<br />
Immediately after passing over the Damascus Gate on the central northern section of the walls we happened upon a cave that was once a quarry for the Jerusalem Stone used to build many important buildings in the Old City, potentially including the sacred Temple of Solomon. This cave is remarkable in that it underpins the very city it was excavated to build.<br />
We ended our walk at the Gold Gate, and wandered through the lavish streets of the Old City until we found ourselves back in the Jewish Quarter for some schwarma lunch. It was delicious and we relaxed after a long hike up and down on the hard, hard rocks of history.<br />
If you have any questions about the pictures below, please ask in the comments and I will try to address them asap.<br />
<img alt="DSC 0126" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tPCh-oWI/AAAAAAAAEzQ/uRbjPaqSFto/DSC_0126.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0126.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="DSC 0160" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tXbkpzcI/AAAAAAAAEzg/VWv7WxKdgsg/DSC_0160.jpg?imgmax=800" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="DSC_0160.jpg" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danyl's Getting a closer look.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><img alt="DSC 0138" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tRNQRcoI/AAAAAAAAEzU/NqD9HBxyFbA/DSC_0138.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0138.jpg" width="400" /><img alt="DSC 0155" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tTP_ZhKI/AAAAAAAAEzY/okqs7Ypq0Ac/DSC_0155.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0155.jpg" width="400" /><img alt="DSC 0159" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tVDeXtDI/AAAAAAAAEzc/pqVgO6fvaIg/DSC_0159.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0159.jpg" width="400" /><img alt="DSC 0163" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tZcuYiyI/AAAAAAAAEzk/-M4N6z7TlPA/DSC_0163.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0163.jpg" width="400" /><img alt="DSC 0186" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tbdwr0EI/AAAAAAAAEzo/nUMeIjnlS0k/DSC_0186.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0186.jpg" width="400" /><img alt="DSC 0193" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tdWtSirI/AAAAAAAAEzs/bkmqrJ1OAp8/DSC_0193.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0193.jpg" width="400" /><img alt="DSC 0201" border="0" height="265" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TX3tfLZsr0I/AAAAAAAAEzw/2AuoR-Om_Qc/DSC_0201.jpg?imgmax=800" style="float: left;" title="DSC_0201.jpg" width="400" />Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-54273713848249243662011-03-10T14:15:00.000+02:002011-03-28T13:47:09.608+02:001 year together<p><img style="float: left;" title="VersionT.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBkr_n0GVI/AAAAAAAAE0Y/jef7Kvbf33w/VersionT.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="VersionT" width="320" height="212" /></p>
<p>March 10th 2010 Rayna and I went on our first date. It was a magical night and the beginning of our relationship (although both of us were excited about it from the moment we met). Well that was one year ago, so Rayna and I decided to celebrate our anniversary together in style.</p>
<p>We planned out trip with the help of one of the wonderful administrators at HUC. Nancy knows this country very well, and recommended places for us to stay and things to see. She is very sweet and extremely helpful. It is thanks to her we had such a wonderful anniversary place to stay.</p>
<p>Rayna put a lot of though into this weekend, and we came to the conclusion to head South where it is warmer and sunnier at this late winter date. There are a plethora of incredible places to go and things to see in this tiny country, and fear not dear reader, I will take you there as well, but this time we went South to Mahktesh Ramon, the "Grand Canyon" of Israel. (Note the consistent occurrence of comparisons to The States in Israeli life, no coincidence here, we are closely tied)</p>
<p>The plan developed that we should rent a car, and depart as early Thursday as we wanted, with a nice no rush attitude we commenced to sleep in a bit, but the excitement was too much so we were up and renting the car by 9. Thrifty Car Rental is between our apartment and HUC, about 5 minutes walking. So we got ready to walk there and realized it was POURING outside. And cold. Oh no! it looked like our weekend might get rained upon and I have to say it put us off a bit.</p>
<p>But being the intrepid North Westerners that we are we suited up and sallied forth.</p>
<p>I rented the car because non-tourists (read Israelis) have to pay at 17% tax on this sort of thing. Crazy! It took a while to get it all going, then I had to get a ride to the lot to pick up the car, which turns out to be a 5 minute walk away... yeesh. The nice man at the rental lot hooked us up though. I got a brand new Ford Fiesta with 9 km on it. Take care of her was all he said. New car smell and everything... well not when we were done with her.</p>
<p>I picked Rayna and all our gear up, and lo we went forth on the streets of Jerusalem and beyond. Driving here is just like driving in Boston. The drivers are crazy, the streets are poorly marked, and you have to be aggressive.</p>
<p><img style="float: left;" title="DSC_0234.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBktrQAuuI/AAAAAAAAE0c/SEdsTIS2F2Q/DSC_0234.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0234" width="320" height="212" /></p>
<p>Roughly two hours later, we had cleared the rain, but the clouds and wind were still at it. We stopped alongside the road after spotting some sweet looking ruins and a sign for a amphitheater. Pulling in we discovered a site with amazing ruins from the Hellenistic period when Greek lifestyle was influencing the region, and the locals were living in comparable peace. Next to this amphitheater complex was the ruin of a Crusader church. A striking difference in style, need, purpose, and peacefulness, but naturally following some of the same architectural trends.</p>
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<p><img style="float: left; border: 0px initial initial;" title="DSC_0288.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBkvgcH9-I/AAAAAAAAE0k/DlkCaWZW90s/DSC_0288.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0288" width="320" height="212" />We stopped at the tomb of Ben and Paula Gurion which is located at Ben Gurion University of the Negev. It is a beautiful site, with a winding walk through a stone sided wadi (riverbed, but this is merely the image here, no water flows through this area) with places to stop and sit, talk, think, learn, and meditate. The end of the walk is a vista with the two tombs looking out into a wide and deep canyon. It was peaceful there, and gave us both a moment to pause and appreciate where we were.</p>
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<p><img style="float: left;" title="In Mitzpe Ramon, the town overlooking the canyon.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBkwzKNXbI/AAAAAAAAE0o/qkgdQm7D1FA/In%20Mitzpe%20Ramon%2C%20the%20town%20overlooking%20the%20canyon.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="In Mitzpe Ramon the town overlooking the canyon" width="320" height="212" /></p>
<p>We proceeded down to Mitzpe Ramon, the town of Ramon, positioned on the lip of the great canyon/crater... Mahktesh as they call it here. Which means a drainage canyon that drains from one source - itself. It is a dry arid place, filled with the beauty you find all over the South West of the US. This place has unusual formation because of the volcanic activity that strained and bent the strata while it formed. We walked along the rim, the wind whipping us and the few other people braving the weather. The clouds cast long shadows on the floor of the canyon below, and the sun lowering in the sky tinging everything orange, red, and pink.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><img title="Mahktesh Ramon.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBkzlMbwZI/AAAAAAAAE0w/TDv2bjFv_Tg/Mahktesh%20Ramon.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Mahktesh Ramon" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0348.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBk1Z1lB0I/AAAAAAAAE00/Ifze6iiOBjI/DSC_0348.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0348" width="600" height="398" />Before we became too chilled, or it got dark, we headed back North out of town 1/2 hour to Carme Avdat, the vineyard we were to stay at that night. In the bliss of being together, and traveling together, we'd planned much of our weekend as far as activities and destinations went, but somehow managed to skip right over dinner on the night of our anniversary!</p>
<p><img style="float: left;" title="Carme Avdat.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBk3DCPTII/AAAAAAAAE04/2truCy3thEU/Carme%20Avdat.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Carme Avdat" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>Once we arrived at Carme Avdat it became quite obvious that there would be no dining there, but that was not what was on our mind. The rugged simplistic beauty of the landscape is accentuated by the casual and simple sweetness which which Carme Avdat embraces the land. The drive in passes through the vines, and winds up the valley into the compound of staff quarters, sales tent, production facilities, farming equipment, offices, and above on the hillside the guest cabins. Each cabin sits alone, and is tucked into the hillside and protected by careful landscaping.</p>
<p>Our cabin was the farthest out, peacefully sitting alone in this approaching windy nightfall.</p>
<p>Inside the floor is the first largest shock... it is loose washed riverstone/gravel, at lest 3" deep, and sitting on who knows what! I have never seen an interior finish floor of loose stone like this before, and it is really fun and funky. Charming too, but it raised some immediate maintainence questions for me, like how is it cleaned? What happens to all the crumbs that fall on the floor? I'll have to find out some day.</p>
<p><img title="IMG_7447.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBk7wNQVQI/AAAAAAAAE1E/g4LM3jtIAxI/IMG_7447.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="IMG 7447" width="320" height="240" /><img title="The floor IN our cabin at Carme Avdat.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBk6szz5HI/AAAAAAAAE1A/XvsKZiQBJpo/The%20floor%20IN%20our%20cabin%20at%20Carme%20Avdat.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="The floor IN our cabin at Carme Avdat" width="320" height="240" /></p>
<p>It was a beautiful cabin in all, very peaceful and fun. Luckily there was a town a 5 min. north where we were able to purchase ingredients for dinner, and we came home and cooked up a feast to share, with a really nice bottle of Tishbi wine. Hopefully we'll get up to the TIshbi vineyard later this year to try more of their appellations.</p>
<p><img style="float: left;" title="Breakfast at Carme Avdat.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBk5ejSeYI/AAAAAAAAE08/5iSrRbZ9xM4/Breakfast%20at%20Carme%20Avdat.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Breakfast at Carme Avdat" width="600" height="450" /></p>
<p>Breakfast was probably the highlight of the stay though. A cooler full of food was delivered to our porch at 8 AM and the spread was magnificent. Fresh cheese, juices, bread, spreads, salads, cereals, milk, and like I said, espresso made in the cabin.</p>
<p>We loaded back up the rental and decided to taste the rest of the wines from Carme Avdat. A small bottle of their 2008 Merlot comes with the room, however we wanted to try more. We ended up with a bottle of קמד, an appellation specific to Carme Avdat as far as I know.</p>
<p>From Carme Avdat we head south into the crater proper for a couple of hikes. First to the "Carpentry" where volcanic action has created prismatic shaped stones uplifting into the basin and exposed from the erosion. These volcanic rocks are much harder than the surrounding soil and limestone so they are now visible in a large hill. It is very cool how the sides and ends of the rocks form geometric patterns.</p>
<p><img title="Air Ibex.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBk9ldjYQI/AAAAAAAAE1I/N6t6W3txAPI/Air%20Ibex.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Air Ibex" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="This is how I hydrate... just kidding, that rock was sweet..jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBk_Ac5qzI/AAAAAAAAE1M/7CfDFpaujmg/This%20is%20how%20I%20hydrate...%20just%20kidding%2C%20that%20rock%20was%20sweet..jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="This is how I hydrate just kidding that rock was sweet" width="600" height="450" />Next we hiked in a "wadi" or dry river bed. Much like the drainage basins in the South West of the states these can flood very quickly so we made sure there was zero chance of rain. The wadi has exposed incredibly colored sedimentary layers where the water has carved out a wall in the desert. Pinks, reds, blues, greens, the whole rainbow. It was a very memorable hike and we took time to climb on the rocks and remember that we were there celebrating a year together. It felt momentous and wonderful.</p>
<p><img title="Look at those colors in the rock (if you can take your eyes off that hottie!).jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlBExDeXI/AAAAAAAAE1Q/XTt7uYa-DRc/Look%20at%20those%20colors%20in%20the%20rock%20%28if%20you%20can%20take%20your%20eyes%20off%20that%20hottie%21%29.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Look at those colors in the rock if you can take your eyes off that hottie" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="My artistic shot of the trip. What do you think?.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlDOMFQoI/AAAAAAAAE1U/acs0Fq9SaIQ/My%20artistic%20shot%20of%20the%20trip.%20%20What%20do%20you%20think%3F.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="My artistic shot of the trip What do you think" width="600" height="398" />From there we continued south out of the canyon through the negev. It is a dry, sparse, beautiful terrain. Rolling hills, sharp cliffs, deep and box canyons everywhere all exciting an idea of exploration. Mystery behind every curving terrain, begging the question, what lies beyond. Perhaps a cache of unknown documents, preserved in this dry desert climate explaining the prevalent mystery being surrounded by this much history elicits.</p>
<p>We drove South then East, heading towards the border with Jordan. When we arrived at Kibbutz Lotan the sun was nearing the horizon. We checked in, dropped our bags off in our room and went out to walk around. Rayna had been to Lotan a few weeks before with her school and wanted to take me there ever since. I know why now.</p>
<p>Lotan is an Eco Kibbutz located in a part of the desert that no one wants. It is an oven in the summer and an oven on low in the winter. It never rains. It is starkly beautiful, with cliffs to the West, Jordan to the East, the Dead Sea to the North, and surrounded by desert.</p>
<p><img title="I thought we left Egypt. Just kidding, now we get to work!.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlE7lnacI/AAAAAAAAE1Y/MhAn1VyLtQ8/I%20thought%20we%20left%20Egypt.%20%20Just%20kidding%2C%20now%20we%20get%20to%20work%21.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="I thought we left Egypt Just kidding now we get to work" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0615.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlG8TdDUI/AAAAAAAAE1c/aqtiloW4LbQ/DSC_0615.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0615" width="600" height="398" /><img title="Red blossom cotton tree.. the sun had just set and the colors were blooming..jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlIZztoVI/AAAAAAAAE1g/-x6ETiheXnw/Red%20blossom%20cotton%20tree..%20the%20sun%20had%20just%20set%20and%20the%20colors%20were%20blooming..jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="Red blossom cotton tree the sun had just set and the colors were blooming" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="I like her shadow.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlKPKjfDI/AAAAAAAAE1k/O_Awi380zHY/I%20like%20her%20shadow.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="I like her shadow" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>I was told this site was chosen for political sustainability. Since no one ever wanted this land it has never been contested. Since then their sustainability scope has expanded to include the built environment, water resources, energy, waste, and agriculture.</p>
<p>The desert conditions make building there very tricky. Keeping cool without burring through crazy amounts of energy is very difficult. The mean radiant temperature inside there is 31º C in the summer. That means that in complete shade, with a breeze, it's HOT. I met and spoke at length with Alex, the most knowledgable person I have met in Israel regarding sustainable architecture. He seems to be in charge of their building program and is responsible for some amazing housing "igloos" made of geodesic framework and straw bale. They have small windows with exterior blinds, and interior reflectors and insulators for the heat of the day.</p>
<p><img title="IMG_7525.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlLxw59sI/AAAAAAAAE1o/t_iI1JBXizg/IMG_7525.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="IMG 7525" width="600" height="450" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p><img title="IMG_7530.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlNvEOsjI/AAAAAAAAE1s/zgsHucTD2-s/IMG_7530.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="IMG 7530" width="450" height="600" /></p>
<p>Despite all the passive systems they have enacted these spaces still require some air conditioning. It is a valiant attempt and wonderful example of sustainable solutions. Here's to the future and hoping that the innovations of Lotan can help teach other people all over. I forgot to mention to Alex the wonderful work of Nader Kalili at the Cal Earth Institute in the scorching desert of southern California. I am guessing he's already heard of him.</p>
<p>After a wonderful shabbat evening and a great night's sleep at Lotan we woke up and explored the campus once more, examining all the architecture and amazing landscaping. Lotan is a birders paradise too. So many amazing chirps, whistles and calls, and beautiful flitting shapes.</p>
<p>After a great breakfast and last look around we went back up the desert to Maktash Ramon for our last hike. This time we drove off the main road to a Bedouin encampment for some of their famous tea. From there it was a short drive to a hike into the Eastern end of the canyon. We hiked up to a large hill that gives a 360º panoramic view of the walls and depths of this natural wonder. The view was epic. Clouds rolling above, thinly veiling the strong desert sun. This wispy light gave extra texture and dimension to a already staggering and dimension defying landscape.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0701.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlPLCFYWI/AAAAAAAAE1w/FrssFNn4JLY/DSC_0701.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0701" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="DSC_0710.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlQiyTFiI/AAAAAAAAE10/fmUYaDcgN9o/DSC_0710.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0710" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p>The drive home to Jerusalem offered one more adventure. At one point on the main highway we made a wrong turn at a roundabout. There were few signs and nothing to indicate a wrong or right turn. Before we knew it we had crossed from the Western third of the country to the far Eastern edge. That is how small this country is, and how desert driving can be. No points of reference, no landmarks, nothing even to indicate how fast or how far you are going. By the time we could figure out where we were the sun was beginning to set. Se we decided to accept our fate and take the new route being offered to us, instead of getting back on our planned route. This would take us down to the Dead Sea, and then North along her Western shore up into the West Bank, then back West to Jerusalem.</p>
<p><img title="DSC_0745.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlSOEc77I/AAAAAAAAE14/HJX2hG04bCQ/DSC_0745.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="DSC 0745" width="600" height="398" /></p>
<p><img title="IMG_7552.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlTs_RH_I/AAAAAAAAE18/axiD6rUJPPY/IMG_7552.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="IMG 7552" width="600" height="450" /></p>
<p>And what a beautiful mistake it was. The sun lit the mountains of Jordan with an amber intensity, highlighting the pale blue of the salty waters below. We descended rapidly from the desert lower into the basin of the sea. As we drove lower the limb of the setting sun disappeared and we dropped into the shadow of the canyon. Driving north we were treated to the darkening reds of the mountains to our right, and the silhouetted of the mountains and Massada to our left.</p>
<p>Night fell and we saw the lights of Jericho to the North. Driving back West into Jerusalem we passed through the security checkpoints with no more than a glance. We dropped back into know territory easily, following the signs to the Center.</p>
<p>In all it was a beautiful weekend, one I will never forget.<br /><br /><img title="IMG_7492.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SLyM311Vy_M/TZBlVYIm4AI/AAAAAAAAE2A/jIEHGEzsH9Y/IMG_7492.jpg?imgmax=800" border="0" alt="IMG 7492" width="600" height="450" /><br />Thanks for reading and see you again soon!<br /><br /> <br /></p>
<p class="blogpress_location">Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=%D7%96">ז'בוטינסקי,Jerusalem,Israel</a></p>
<p> </p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-21318898818735238642011-03-08T09:16:00.001+02:002011-03-08T09:39:45.737+02:00A view from above: Ramparts and crazy humansMonday morning, Rosh Chodesh, the beginning of the new month in Israel. Adar II because Israel is on the lunar cycle, every few years we have a leap month, thus the "II" for Adar. This is also the month of Purim, which is one of the biggest and most fun holidays/festivals in the Jewish world. I'll tell you more about it as it approaches and I celebrate Israel style, but for now just keep in mind it is nigh. <br /><br />To celebrate Rosh Chodesh (literally head of the month) Rayna has been participating in a group called Women of the Wall. The Wall refers to the Kotel or Western or Wailing Wall. The most sacred spot we've got. I'm not going to give this issue enough credit here because it's a biggie but I will sum up. Israel is governed by a democracy that is heavily influenced by Orthodox religious peoples. I am not educated enough to explain this in detail but things like the Wall, and funds for religious organizations are controlled by this power bloc. Because of this the rules enforced at the wall follow the orthodoxy. And that includes different rules and separation for men and women. There is a screen wall that divides the plaza directly in front of the Wall into two UNEQUAL areas for men and women. Can you guess who gets the smaller area?<br /><br />You're right. Sorry ladies, this isn't the future yet.<br /><br />Because of this GROSS inequality and blatant bigotry and sexism an incredibly peaceful and beautiful group has evolved. They are the Women of the Wall. Every month at Rosh Chodesh they arrive em mass. They have taken the gains achieved thus far, and work within these limits peacefully. This includes entering the Wall area without yarmekules on, so they must be secreted about their persons. Without Talit (the prayer shawl worn by jews during prayer) worn in the traditional way, they must be worn as scarves. And in no way are they to carry or read from a Torah. <br /><br />None of these limitations are pressed onto the men who come to worship. They may do as they please. And in this most holy place they pray devoutly, intensely, generously teaching others, and for long periods. They cover their heads and shoulders in Talit, they wear head coverings specific to their sect, they wrap teffilin and daven ferociously.<br /><br />The Women of the Wall enter the women's side and huddle together at the rear of the prayer area, preparing for an outlawed and controversial act: they are about to pray as a group - out loud.<br /><br />Beautiful voices begin to rise, the light of sanctity shining from their faces as the sun crests the high wall casting the first rays of this new month on this sacred space. Soft peaceful sounds, respectful, elegant, and welcoming.<br /><br />This act of prayer is met with the most reproachful acts of childish and immature behavior you can imagine in a space that is supposedly the most sacred space to the very actors protesting the Women's peaceful prayer. Spitting, shushing, yelling, and in the past months name calling and aggressive posturing. <br /><br />I stand on the Men's side of the partition, in the corner closest to the Women. Soldiers line the fence. 3 or 4, but their numbers grow as the Women begin praying. There are soldiers and police on their side too, and at the fence above the prayer area in front of the wall. These women are expected and protected. I wonder if it is for the safety of the women, or as a self limitation for the reactors a la "don't hold me back" when you know you must not act.<br /><br />The soldiers stand at the fence, and myself and a few other men who are there with and in support of the women act as a buffer between the rest of the men praying and the soldiers.<br /><br />A crowd of ultra-orthodox gather a few feet away from us, praying to the wall, and casting glances towards the Women as they begin their service in earnest. It is hard to hear the Women at all, in the thrum of activity already happening at the wall just past sunrise. But that becomes too much for these "men" to bear and they begin to retaliate.<br /><br />I was a bit nervous about how this would go down. I am confident there will be no physical response, but I have heard that the yelling and castigation can become intense. But it never does. The men, in a childish display of impotence decide they must drown out the Women by praying louder and louder, shouting their prayers, and defiling the peacefulness of this sacred space. <br /><br />I stood there, as the sun shone down on my countenance, warming my body and soul as it should, smiling. The men, protesting this act of beautiful prayer by praying! As boisterously as possible, but in the end, just praying! It was gleeful, and wild, a pulsing call and response of the almightiest devotions to a God without ears. A God who to me hears the prayers not in voice but in your heart. It was an act of a play that has been performed over and over again in the struggles of people, of men and women, of oppressors and oppressed, throughout history. But it was peaceful. A battle of prayers. <br /><br />A fine gentleman who is the father of one of the Women, and the husband of another, and who is a Rabbi in NY joined us and brought me and Danyl (one of Rayna's classmates fiancé) prayer books. He has an awesome bushy white beard and hair, and eyebrows of a wizard. He helped us find the place in the books the Women's service had reached and we began praying along. More men joined us, significant others of this praying group of women, and more soldiers to keep the peace.<br /><br />As the service wrapped up the soldiers told us they were going to escort us out of the prayer area to the plaza. And this is the only moment where I felt uncomfortable. I didn't feel like I needed an escort but who am I to argue. We left as peacefully as we arrived, and proceeded to another area at the Temple mount where the Women of the Wall are permitted to read from Torah. <br /><br />This is a perfect example of something i will never understand. For all the good and beauty that religion brings to the world, how can belief like this that limits one group of the population from participating be right? Hopefully I will have a better understanding of this as my time here continues, and I will be able to cast more light on this issue. Until then, I will continue to do what I do best in these situations. Support, smile, enjoy, and move forward. I hope that my smile and earnest thoughts and prayers of the wall Monday morning were absorbed by the orthodox protestors, and that they will continue to evolve and realize that their position is improved when they participate in improving the positions of others.<br /><br />Breakfast was an indulgence after that experience. At Marzipan in Mamilla mall, just outside Jaffa gate. I had an almond croissant that had been filled with chocolate.... YES. OMG. So good. I also had a mocha, and half a sandwich. I needed energy because the ladies were departing for school, and Danyl and I were to walk the ramparts. <br /><br />This post has already gotten too long, so I will have to add more later, including pictures. <br /><br />All the best to you on this new month.<br /><br />- with Shalom from Israel<br /><p class='blogpress_location'>Location:<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?q=%D7%96'%D7%91%D7%95%D7%98%D7%99%D7%A0%D7%A1%D7%A7%D7%99,Jerusalem,Israel%4031.771043%2C35.221748&z=10'>ז'בוטינסקי,Jerusalem,Israel</a><br /><br />Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-12527403059777634832011-03-08T09:00:00.001+02:002011-03-08T09:00:57.439+02:00While Rayna's at school, I'm...Sunday is Monday. with all that entails, as you can imagine. Rayna's longest day at school, everyone is back to work, it's lovely. I get down to the task at hand (other than writing all of you) which in this case is learning Hebrew. There are a few other sundry tasks that i attend, finding a capoeira group (I think I have, but they are Abada so we'll see how it goes), finding some Krav Maga classes, and getting things set up for my return. I want to have a job in NYC next fall all lined up before I arrive, so as an architect there is a lot of front end research and work to getting myself ready for that. I'll keep you posted on that but for now, I want to be able to talk to people here without having to ask them right off the bat if they speak English.<br /><br />Perhaps the most important thing I've brought with me is the Pimsler learning system Carmin and my Dad gave me before I left. It's a nifty little SD card reader and three SD cards full of Hebrew lessons. You pop in a card, your headphones and just follow along speaking. I do it everywhere and I am sure I look and sound ridiculous. "Pardon me, do you want to drink a little something?" Yes thank you.<br /><br />It is very convenient and easy for me, and I find myself learning rapidly. I have already had a few cool interactions and a few that could be better. INcluding asking a man if he wanted my bottle for the refund in the feminine yesterday. He was very friendly in correcting me.<br /><br />So i took my lessons mobile on Sunday, walking to SuperSol the grocery store nearby. I responded to the internally provided questions all up and down the streets of Jerusalem, answering everyone within earshot that yes, I do want to eat something at their house, and hoping that people assume I'm just on the phone, not crazy or worse.<br /><br />It was mostly a success, but I did require the assistance of an English speaker once and a fellow customer hooked me up.<br /><br />I brought home the goods and when Rayna got home I cooked up a delicious meal of Chicken with a Zatar rub, broiled on the bone, and a lentil rice mix we bought at the Shuk. I'll add some veggies next time.<br /><br />Rayna's been interviewing this week after school with Synagogues back home. Due to the time difference all the interviews are in our evening and their mornings. She was pretty nervous but knocked them out of the park. She's a natural. <br /><br />I keep falling asleep early at nights, and since she needs our room for her interviews I did so on the couch Sunday night. I guess you could say I'm feeling right at home. Best to you all back home too.<br /><br />Eli<br /><br /><br />- with Shalom from Israel<br /><p class='blogpress_location'>Location:<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?q=%D7%96'%D7%91%D7%95%D7%98%D7%99%D7%A0%D7%A1%D7%A7%D7%99,Jerusalem,Israel%4031.771043%2C35.221748&z=10'>ז'בוטינסקי,Jerusalem,Israel</a></p>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-13859487950658518722011-03-06T11:33:00.001+02:002011-03-06T18:39:48.887+02:00My first Shabbat in Jerusalem (of this trip!)Shabbat comes to Jerusalem in silence. The day dawns slower, peace flowing in waves of light over the land. Birds fly slower and sing softer, the leaves of trees dancing to a rhythm at ease in this intense land. <br />
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Of course that's not true, it is poetic license, but that is how it feels. Because Shabbat is a thing here. It is an action based on a belief that is shared by the vast majority of the population in Jerusalem. Action equaling inaction, a choice to take a day off from what we call life. Oh yes, I have learned much on this first Shabbat of my trip, and I have a feeling I will be learning more each Friday as the sun makes it's circut across the sky.<br />
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Shabbat begins as a religious expression at sundown, marked by 3 stars visible in the sky, but the affect begins at dawn on Friday. <br />
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Since most commerce shuts down with the sun on Friday evening, there is much preparation before this, so that everything is satisfied before Shabbat officially begins. You must purchase your staples and specials, you must run your errands, and mail your letters, make your plans and prepare yourself for the more than 24 hours of inaction that follows.<br />
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I woke up later this fine shabbat morning that I had yet, and in doing opened my eyes unto a peaceful plane. The light was seeping in gently, the noisome traffic was diminished, yet there was a peaceful stir to the place. I took my time, gently awakening my senses to this next new experience. Rayna and I got up and smiled all the way out. It is an intention. It is set upon deciding to dwell here and renewed every week when the day arrives. It is peace internal and mirrored by a world in agreement with this choice. To oppose, to make the choice to not observe Shabbat in at least this peaceful countenance is to run ragged against yourself, to counter peace overwhelming with grinding gears of impatience and rush. I won't find out personally what that feels like because I will be going with this. I will let it take me slowly into peace.<br />
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Rayna and I walked into the commercial center and met Marissa, one of Rayna's close new friends here in Israel. She's not an HUC student, but she is a student here, which seems to be the most common occupation in Jerusalem... like an entire city dedicated to study, and almost always study of belief in some form. What an amazing place.<br />
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Rayna, Eliana (our roommate) and I walked to the central post office to mail some stuff and pay the electric bill. You take a number then wait. Much more civilized than waiting in line. It took a spell which was great because by the time we were done we were hungry.<br />
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We ate at an awesome breakfast joint that remeinded me of a New York cafe. Incredible baked goods spilling off the counters; strudels, loafs, sweets, something delicious and cinnamon sweet called Babka... and fresh squeezed orange juice. Ok, this is something of a personal tradition. I LOVE fresh squeezed OJ, and thank goodness, it seems to follow me around when I travel. Bolivia - OJ and Grapefruit jice carts on every corner. Israel - Fresh juice everywhere, in ever restaurant, at HUC in the student area, in every shuk,everywhere. I read that Israel once bought a huge Russion compound in Jerusalem for oranges. I guess it's an important crop here. <br />
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Once i figure out the name of the breakfast spot ( It's Kodesh!)<s> I'll put it in here</s> because it was GOOD. Although what I ordered wasn't what I expected, it was still good. There is also excellent espresso here. This is how I am beating jet lag.<br />
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After breakfast we came home and just relaxed until it was time to go meet the rest of the HUC students going to Shabbat services at Tsur Hadassa, a small town with a Reform congregation about 1/2 an hour south of Jerusalem. The Reform Movement has just gained recognition here and is not funded the same way as orthodox congregations in Israel. Tsur Hadassa has a very modest and simple pre-fabricated building in a small town in the rolling hills of this beautiful country. I was shocked to see such a modest structure that is a synagogue. As an American I consistently and wrongly expect all houses of worship to be opulent beautiful places, but that is not the norm here. Religion is integrated into life here in a way that it is not in America. It is a common part of life, more like a community center, where people go regularly. The kids know it personally, and run about playing and exclaiming with abandon. the congregants talk to each other easily and without care. There is no feeling of this being a ritual, or a special occasion. It is part of life, and there is no pretense for being at services, it is simply the place everyone goes because there is no reason to be anywhere else.<br />
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It is beautiful and foreign, it makes my mind wander and pulse in a mockery of understanding because it is SO different from what I know. A young girl sat next to me. She speaks some english and her friend a young boy, probably a Bar Mitzvah already so hardly a boy anymore, sits benind me. They are not reserved, they are not ushered into seats or even into the synagogue, it is theirs. They help me. Their names do not fit my tongue or memory, I have trouble even hearing them amid the attempts to understand what I am experiencing. I wish i could write them here now because I remember what the boy's name means "an Island with a tree on it." Yea, that is cool. He told me quite directly "you can speak English to me" and I couldn't even count to 5 in Hebrew. Confidence, assuredness and ease emanate from these people, and welcome. Rayna sings at Tsur Hadassa as part of her program but she, as always, has become a part of these people's hearts and lives. She is a winged angel of song, landing ever peacefully, adding her notes of beauty, and giving joy and peace with her voice. I watched in amazement, feeling the casualness with which everyone participated in this ritual of thanks, of prayer, of community and I grew frustrated. <br />
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I began to ask myself why I am making these Hebrew sounds and reading along as best I could (the girl to my right helping me find my place over and over and over again) to prayers and words i don't understand! I felt some shame at trying, at pretending, and chameloning in as I know I can, but lacking the meaning. I know many of the Shabbat prayers by heart, but of sound only, not of what the words mean, not even of what the words are. Some I know of course... the Shema, the blessings over wine, bread, and light. But so many others I have no idea. It does not feel right to be joining in such beautiful company as a charlatan. <br />
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As I sat there growing more and more inwardly upset with myself, I remembered some passages from a book I had read in our down time that afternoon. It is an amazing book "The Routledge Atals of the Arab-Israeli Conflict" by Martin Gilbert. Maps showing history, and facts staring you in the face. Facts began to come to my mind, just words "Town destroyed 16 killed some tortured" and images, supplied by yours truly... I began to get hot, uncomfortable and upset. This beautiful service, my heart began to weep, the people of this region, my ancestors, strangers, arab families, foreign invaders, jews, people everywhere capable of such peaceful intentions. All at risk and on constant alert for their lives to be upheaved into chaos. This small town sitting on the rubble of a history that bears the wounds of torture and death, and me, sitting there pretending.<br />
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I can't take it any more. I decided then and there that until I know the Hebrew words I will do my praying in English. I will not affront this critical honesty and openness with the appearance of community. This place is so very real, I will return that as best I can, every day.<br />
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Shabbat brought peace into my heart through anger and frustration, it brough me to an edge from which I saw the true depths to which we humans have descended and I now take this step onto the ethereal stair that lifts us above through faith and belief. Not in something imaginary or antiquuated, but in the real true acts of living day to day by a set of standards and an established rule of self. <br />
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God is a word that describes something human. A belief in order from chaos, a belief in making that brings us out of chaos. I hope I don't sound like I am preaching in any way. This is a personal belief that shapes my understanding of what I see around me. God does not sit in a chair or live in a house. God is not offended by me typing the letter G O and D in succession. God is Universe and we are his angels and daemons. The actions and commandments passed down through history are an attempt at making this world better, safer, more peaceful and beautiful for everyone. <br />
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Shabbat services ended and our group split up and Rayna Mandy and I went to dinner with a lovely family from Tsur Hadasa. We ate a delicious meal at their house and talked about so much. I was still feeling a bit strange after such an intense week of learning, adapting and jet lag plus the emotions turmoil from services that I was perhaps quieter than normal. As the evening ended we said fond goodbyes, and hope to see their family again soon. We met the rest of the students after their home cooked meals at the bus and rode back to HUC together. weariness overcame me and I slept walked home with Rayna. We watched the first part of a movie but I could not keep my eyes open, adn I feel asleep to the confines of my own mind, dreaming through the experiences of the day. My first Shabbat back in Jerusalem, and my own emotions and insights crystalizing in hopes that they would awaken transformed as I.<br />
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Saturday Morning, Services and smiles.<br />
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Rayna was taking part in the Saturday Morning Shabbat services at HUC, chanting Torah (are you picking up on the theme here? She is INVOLVED) and invited me to do an Aliya. I was nervous as I approached the bima and chanted the blessing before and after the Torah is read. It felt good. It felt joyous in that synagogue. I read from the prayer book that provides both English and Hebrew, and as I said each prayer in Hebrew I read the English and understood for myself what I meant. <br />
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Bring us peace, bring us healing, bring us understaning of the world through stories, through strange and seemingly mundane details. Is asking for healing, for peace, for understaning the same as finding it? No, of course not, but how can you find it without first seeking?<br />
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Shabbat ended as peacefully as it began. After services we came home and relaxed until Havdallah, back at HUC. We took our time getting there, taking a route through a park across the street from our apartment which led us down stairs into a beautiful neighborhood that is an artists colony. I will go back and take pictures later to share with you. We then found our way towards HUC through a park, to a hilltop whereupon I realized I'd been there before. On my very first night in Israel back in 1994, our safri group gathered there and celebrated Shabbat with a view of the Old City, and wonder on our faces.<br />
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Havdallah is a beautiful services celebrating the joys of life and the peace granted after Shabbat. Rayna's voice again like a balm to my soul, to the world at large. I swear, she makes apples smile and doves weep with hope. She sings with the voice of her community, her breath and their voices, strumming our soules awake to the beautiful world around us.<br />
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Afterwards we walked south to Emek Refiem to a large Reform Synagogue for a community auction. It was very fun, and I won an auction on a Cuban cigar... the story is actually funnier than that... i was in a silent bidding war with a congregation member... with 30 seconds left i walked up to make a final bid, writing so slowly and carefully so that I would be last. in true Israeli fashion he reached ACROSS the table and wrote as I was writing UPSIDE down a higher bid. I hadn't even written my bid yet! But I knew he wanted them much more than I so i laughed and conceded. We shook hands, and as soon as it was confirmed he won he opened the box and gave me one of the five cigars. That's what I call winning an auction. One for free, and a friendly experience.<br />
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Rayna and I speed walked home so she could finish her Hebrew homework, and I laid in bed and feel asleep remembering... Shabbat in Israel. Peace to you all.Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-42390542920377839532011-03-05T16:35:00.006+02:002011-03-05T16:45:11.609+02:00Thursday = Friday<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px; border-collapse: collapse; line-height: 18px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Woke up early again and got to watch some of the Blazer game! Streaming is difficult now because my favorite site went down a while ago, and the other one seems to have gone private... maybe time to buy the KGW games? It's great watching them here, though the 5 AM tipoff will make it hard now that my jet lag is gone. But Thursday morning it was still there, and I lay in bed and watched until Rayna got up too and the day began in earnest.</span></span><br />
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I joined Rayna at my first T'fila (a prayer service) at HUC which is an incredibly beautiful service led by students. The sanctuary is a very simple space with a tremendous ark whose doors are made of solid marble 2" thick. The service leaders stand back away from the ark in between two areas of seating that face each other parallel to the long axis of the chapel. Try picturing a normal religious space with rows of seating perpendicular to the aisle like any church or synagogue you see on tv... now rotate the seating so that you face the aisle! There are rows of seating towards the back that face the ark, but most people sit facing each other. And the people leading service stand amongst everyone. It is much more intimate and communal feeling. Everyone participates and the score of rabbinical and cantorial students make for an incredible immersive experience. Rayna is truly in her element here and joined in with the beautiful voice and enthusiasm she brings to her training and spiritual existence.<br />
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After service Rayna had a full day of classes so I embarked on a personal adventure to explore the Old City on my own, and to learn more Hebrew through the fantastic audio lessons that Carmin (my step mom) and and my Dad gave to me last year. I walk the streets approaching the Old City from HUC with my earbuds in diligently repeating the Hebrew phrases... and I definitely get some strange looks and a few laughs.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I walked through Mamilla mall which is a brand new very high end mall that connects some major streets (one of those being the street HUC (Rayna's school) is on) to the Jaffa gate. It's a strange experience walking through this modern space of commerce to the ancient gate of the Old City. But what's strangest of all is that it feels right in some critical ways. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Mamilla mall is an open air pedestrian walk with fancy stores and restaurants on each side. Addidas, The North Face, fine art galleries, high end fashion (local and international) boutiques etc... line both sides with a few open areas that provide amazing vistas to the city of Jerusalem and the beautiful valleys and rolling hills nearby. Walking through it I get the feeling this use is nothing new. Perhaps never in this exact spot but an open air market with stalls and shops, money changing, wares being hawked, art, people watching... this is what h as been happening here for THOUSANDS of years. Of course the scale and products have mostly changed, but it feels unnaturally natural. Like diet cola.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Walking down this mall puts you on a plaza right outside of Jaffa gate. People gather here for tours, to take pictures, to eat some treats from the mall, and just to sit and stare. Which I did. All of that. I ate a snack (Israel has amazing bakeries everywhere), I listened in to a tour being given in english, I took some pictures, and I sat. I sat and stared in wonder at the Citadel of David, and at Jaffa gate. It feels strange to be able to just walk through the gate without a ticket, or a wristband, or something. It's like Disney world for history and religion. And it's free, open to the public (assuming you can get into the country) and real. It's amazing and mysterious.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">There was a woman there taking pictures on a large format camera. I have been having trouble with a spot on my photos so I asked her if she knew of a photo shop. She told me of one on Yaffa street... I have learned enough Hebrew already to ask her if she spoke English, which of course, she did. Everyone here does. Disney, I'm telling you. This factors in later, but it felt good, like I'm getting to know this place personally enough to get directions and talk to strangers.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I took some photos of the gate, of the pigeons flying about, of the stones... but there's just too much to capture. Each part of Jerusalem is photogenic and tells a story. Good or bad, it is imbued with history and character like layers of paint in a masterpiece capturing light, infusing with color and meaning, wrapping the mind, pulling your vision in deeper and deeper through history. I fell through the gate, like water through a drain, pulled into the city to wander.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I wandered left and down, through the Christian quarter, past small alleys and openings to headquarters of unknowable organizations. Religions symbols adorning ancient stones whose meaning is lost to me, and perhaps to the ages. I fell down through the layers of time and history. Like eras of conquering forces, Roman sects, Greek orders, Armenian brotherhoods, Coptic, Ottoman, Arab, till I found myself surrounded by the smells and sounds of a dark and lively marketplace. This is the Arab market or shuk which consists of stores of incredible variety. Including Judaica and Christianica(?), goods durable and soft, and food galore. Candy, spices, bakeries, drinks, junk food, raw ingredients and MEAT. Halal butchers with entire butchered animals hanging, huge hocks, and unidentifiable sections of meat. Blood draining down the stones into gutters, washed by the men working here, eagerly welcoming in customers.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I didn't linger. It is a strange experience. Not unwelcome but not altogether comfortable. I sought the open areas of the city again. those bathed in the strong sunlight of this high country. Down a long dark alley I spotted stairs to discover I was fooled by a large metal overhead door whose sections looked like the faces of stone risers. A forced right, back up another alley with more of the endless shops... sunlight growing stronger here, a face of a building bathed in light, always turning towards greater open air I finally found my way out of the labyrinth of that commercial chasm. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">And into the light and clatter of another spectacle. I'd stumbled onto the courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This center of Christianity couldn't be more baffling. A glaring opposite of the grand churches and courts of Rome or Paris, England or even the US this relic sits in a tight irregular rectangle of space off center on it's primary elevation, looking uncomfortable and squashed into this shoebox of a quadrangle. I'd promised Rayna that we'd see it together so I lingered for only a moment and began my wanderings again. I'll be back to let that old gal tease me with her potential soon.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I wondered further, to the viewing platform of the Kotel, and back up the steps to Kikar Hurva where a massive new beautiful Ramban Synagogue sits. Built on the site of the most impressive and largest synagogue of the ages (Synagogue, not Temple) that was destroyed during an occupation, this edifice is a statement of permanence and perseverance. Rayna and I will get a tour some day. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I can only handle so much intense sensory information in one wandering so I decided to head for the camera shop the nice lady had told me about. I tried to head for the Damascus Gate on the north side of the old city, but got lost in the narrow winding alleys of the market and Christian quarter. After many wrong turns and dead ends to which I was delighted to encounter, I found myself at the New Gate built in the 1880s, and exited the Old City for the airy spaciousness of new Jerusalem.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I found myself on the tracks of the brand new Light Rail line that goes up Yaffa Street, so I went in search of the store I'd been told of. I never found it but did find a Photo shop who directed me to a Photo lab! Super friendly and competent, they took my camera and told me to come back in an hour and they would have my chip and optics cleaned. Naturally I asked for a recommendation for lunch, Schwarma to be specific! And they came through nicely. One full belly and a shot of espresso later I was back and picked up my camera. Of course as Israelis they wouldn't let me take the camera without first double checking it was properly serviced. So I took the extra couple of minutes to ask them for more info. I love the way Israelis talk and relate. So direct and matter of fact, but always professional.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">By now it was time to meet Rayna at home so I walked from Ben Yehuda/Yaffa back through the streets to our apartment. I was pretty worn out but I'll tell you, one shot of espresso and I was good to go!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Rayna came home and we split for a birthday dinner in the Emek Rafaim neighborhood just south of where we live. It's a super cool and fun place, like 21st. Ave in Portland, or Shadyside in Pittsburgh. Lots of shops and restaurants, and people walking everywhere. We had a lovely group dinner, bought some treats for Shabbat the next night, and walked home. After a short stop at home we headed out again to a bar up by Ben Yehuda where we met some of Rayna's classmates and associated friends. I met a guy named Adam (one of Rayna's classmates boy friend) who is getting his masters in religious literature at Hebrew University. What an interesting person to talk to, and to answer some of the many thousands of questions occurring to me with every turn of the road here in this mystical and complex place.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">It was my first night out and really fun. We sat outside a bar and I had two Goldstar beers. It's the local brew, and tasted just right after a long day of wandering, sun, talking and thinking.</span>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-91748839950555806342011-03-03T16:51:00.002+02:002011-03-04T15:23:32.405+02:00Day 3: The ShukRayna had class today, so I went with her to school and gave myself time to get oriented even more, and do some research! I hung out in the library on HUC's campus using the internet to find some capoeira (not too successful yet... Capoeira is everywhere, but good capoeira (Regional especially) is hard to find.. the search continues) and some Krav Maga classes. Both are still eluding me. If anyone reading this knows about either near the old city let me know!!!!<br />
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Rayna and I shared lunch in the M'od (it's the student lounge) on campus, and I wandered a bit more while she finished classes. HUC is a beautiful campus with incredible views to the Old City and the Citadel of David, Mt. Olives, and the various historical and modern architecture on the hills to the East. I finished Amos Elon's Jerusalm City of Mirrors, sitting in the Jerusalem sun on HUC's campus. Felt quite fitting, and it's a wonderful read (and it was my Grandpa Moshe's book - he lived here, grew up here, and passed away this fall, so it was quite fitting and good feeling to finish this book here).<br />
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When Rayna was done she came home to find a napping Eli, and man was I out! Somehow she roused me and we got equipped to go to the Shuk. It's the big open air/enclosed marketplace where you can get everything ala the markets everywhere in the world other than the USA. We have malls and Fred Meyers, and Shopping Centers... I much prefer markets. There are some really incredible shops here, from fine cheese and wines, to dried everythings, to bakeries, to fruit and vegetable stands, to the kitchen and home supply slots. I dragged the Shuk Cart around and we filled with with spices and seasonings, fruits, breads and baked goods, cheese and milk and who knows what. We took the bus there and back and just FYI, busses are one of those awesome universal things. Great bus system here.<br />
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Once home Rayna made a wonderful Hummus Basar (that's meat cooked and served on a plate with hummus and olive oil that you eat with bread) seasoned with Zatar (thyme and sesame). I made salad and I think I fell asleep while eating. I had come home for a nap earlier and had never truly woken all the way up. The Jet Lag is strong here. So I fell asleep early yet again, while Rayna studied. I keep doing that and waking up early.... early enough to watch the Blazer game!!!! I can stream it here live if I find a good site. So go Blazers, but please, Jet Lag, let me go so I can sleep in past 5 am tomorrow.Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-63602001038020680802011-03-03T16:38:00.000+02:002011-03-03T16:38:56.375+02:00Settling in, getting oriented - keeping this briefRayna in all her grace planned ahead to skip class the next day. What a great gal, and an amazing girlfriend. We had an excellent breakfast at Cup 'o Joe downstairs from our apartment (Israeli breakfast is salad, eggs, coffee and juice, and some 'sauces' which can be guacamole, tahina, tuna, or something else that fits in a little dish, toast and sunshine). We took our time and talked, Rayna helping me get oriented, and me operating at about 85% due to jet lag. After we walked to her school (it's about 10 min. or less walk from our apt.) and met with Nancy who is saintly and so welcoming. She helped us plan our upcoming anniversary trip, and get me some options for hebrew lessons etc. Everyone at HUC is so friendly and helpful. I met a ton of other students, got the official tour, and had some moments...<br />
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I've been here before. yes. I was 16 going on 17, here with NFTY for a summer safari, so eager so excited... i celebrated my birthday somewhere here... courtyards surrounded by buildings, filled with flashes of memory, shafts of light through the trellis, a memory of photos, of taking photos, of reliving through shared remembrances years later with friends, and now back, in a flash... I've been here before.<br />
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Yes, right here! The Persian Gardens, a spiral fountain, here a memory a picture in my mind of myself taking a photo down this long fountain, an evening in 1994 with new friends and wild new excitement and places all over again! Like echoes of your own heartbeat in the grand canyon, thundering back to me I am transfixed in time. Spiraled back upon my dearest memories. Safari 14 here with me again. My how the mind works and memory beckons like a dark forest path, light at the end and sounds all around.<br />
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I had an hour while Rayna had a meeting at lunch (the one thing she couldn't skip :) ) where I explored and discovered this place. I met so many wonderful people. Friends I hadn't met yet but they knew me through Rayna, and I knew them through her as well. Wonderful people full of hope and life, engaged in a learning that is both mystic and practical, leading the world through learning the past. More on that later I'm sure.<br />
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After Rayna's meeting we walked to the old city of Jerusalem. The city of legend, the city of walls and wars. A city of peace enmeshed in violent struggle, a city of such dynamic tensions and of ancient repose. It beckoned like a bell tolling at frequencies only felt by the soul, pulling us in. Jerusalem will fill this blog with simile, metaphor, experience, stories, magic, wonder, sadness, hope, history, alarm, excitement, shame, fear, bliss, ecstasy, more than I can give you now. Those entries will come later I hope, this is no promise, but I can tell you I know this now from my first experience there. All the emotions I know become her. Wrapped up in layers, in endless details, in simple untouchable truths, in unbelievable irrational, Jerusalem beckons. She is eternal as the sand on a beach. She is fragile and changing as the endless dreams of the clouds. She is beautiful and terrible soaked in blood and sunlight. Filled with beautiful sights, smells, sounds, and souls. She is graceful and stocky. She is all and naught. Hope and endless, eternal waiting.<br />
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We walked her streets, saw the wares hawked, tasted the treats and spoke to the locals. We walled ourselves off in solemnity as we placed our hands on her walls. On The Wall. I opened myself to the divine, and found questions. More questions, and now answers, just questions and beliefs. I will tell you more when the time is right. Not now. We left The Wall and walked the ramparts back towards the Jaffa Gate (that's on the Western side, right in the middle, in plain view of Rayna's school... what a place!). We left the old city, and entered back into the new, my weariness returning, we went home.<br />
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Dinner was simple and wonderful, Rayna made chili and rice and we had a glass of wine at Rayna's (and now my) dear friends Susie and Mandy's apartment. Then we came home and I once again entered the sleep of the jet lagged, crushing powerful deep sleep.... with not tests on my mind, or worries in my soul. It's good to be here. It's great to be here with Rayna.Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4050445547359603044.post-77478572610285166082011-03-03T15:36:00.001+02:002011-03-03T16:12:36.864+02:00March 3rd, Settling inGreetings everyone, as my inaugural post I will take a few steps back to get you all up to date.<br />
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</div><div>I arrived in Israel on february 28th, after leaving Portland on the 27th and flying through Toronto, and Vienna, and into Tel Aviv. It was a long process, but not as long or difficult as getting ready for this trip. That alone deserves a post and perhaps I'll get to it, but to sum it up I finished taking my ARE exams about a week before my departure, and spent the intervening time packing my house, seeing friends and saying goodbye to Tsuki. Yes, it takes a week to say goodbye to my dog for three months. Don't get me started, she's the best.</div><div><br />
</div><div>I have some truly amazing friends and family in Portland, and this post is dedicated to you. Thank you all, and a special thanks to my friends and family who are helping me try to rent my house for a couple of months while I am gone. I am keeping my fingers crossed!</div><div><br />
</div><div>So that's how it goes... work work work, then hop on a plane at an ungodly hour and wake up somewhere... else. Like Dorthy, I was whisked away, wrought by winds of an unnatural nature, spiraling elsewhere into a foreign land, with hopes, dreams, fears, and excitement twisting my inner self into a web or tangled jet lagged miasm that led me anew into a strange and familiar land. </div><div><br />
</div><div>I fell asleep at the gate in Portland, after setting alarm after alarm to avoid just that fate, and was awakend by a gate attendant asking me if I was on this flight... the gate area now empty but for the two of us, I rushed alarmed down the jetway. A shaky start to a time addled journey but yes, I was off. All aboard, the journey began. Sleeping awake, my intercontinental fate, I wove myself through foreign lands and airports, through red-eyes and gates to this final destination that is my long awaited fate.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Tel-Aviv airport, I'd been here before. 17 years ago when I was 17 years old. A time of transformation, a time of discovery. Self awakening, or was it just teenage change? It doesn't matter, it's baked into who I am now, and who I've become to bring me back here, all this way through all those years. It is a new Eli who stepped off that plane and into the mele of Israeli customs (cultural and official airport kind). So I landed, and waited, and slid on through, received my bag and walked through the doors into....</div><div><br />
</div><div>Bright shining light</div><div>Strange sounds and smells</div><div>Warm sunny air</div><div>and Rayna sailing towards me</div><div>gliding across the floor arms outstretched</div><div>her excitement buoying my weariness as it all came thundering back</div><div>the world, the newness, the excitement, the joy</div><div>the reunion of my love and myself</div><div>the gulag of our distance</div><div>over and done</div><div>together again at last</div><div><br />
</div><div>In an instant, in a heartbeat our eyes meeting (not through the false lense of skype, or the tin of long distance) our arms hugging, reality crashing together in a hammer of hearts and love. This is how reunions should be. She slid across the slick Jerusalem stone floor in her Israel bought boots, joy on her face and anticipation giving way to glee. I'd arrived.<br />
<br />
The rest of the day was a mix of reality checks, drowsieness, elation, and fatigue. We took a sheroot to our apartment, got in, unpacked (like really quickly, I think I packed light), rested and refreshed, and walked into town for dinner. Rayna took me out to dinner at T'mol Shilshom (bookstore and cafe and delicious!) and walked back to our apartment where I fell asleep exhausted. Sleeping after a journey through space and time like that tripple jump I'd accomplished is one way to get a good night's sleep.</div>Greenstigatorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06433508711771179884noreply@blogger.com2