Ramparts, a recap

I believe I left off last week with the cliffhanger of sorts, my friend Danyl and I were to walk the ramparts.  The ramparts are the walls of the Old City.  As a walled city, the ramparts refers to the top of wall where city defenders would take position to fire arrows, hurl rocks, spears, and various furniture down atop invaders.  I am sure boiling oil and other nasty stuff was tossed off too.  It is a great way to see the city, both old and new.

Entrance is 16 NIS and starts at Jaffa Gate which is the main entrance on the western side of the Old City.  Pictures will say it all best, but the sites where very impressive.  A melange of old world technology, historical juxtaposition, everyday modern life, and plenty of mystery.

The walk atop the ramparts is precarious at times, with many small diversions onto raised or outcropping sections of the walls.  The stone is the ubiquitous Jerusalem stone; hard, kaki, dressed or undressed, it is the fabric of this place, and that means hard and bright, and most of all, enduring.


Many interesting symbols appear while walking here.  These mosaics are in the flooring of a Christian compound.  Much of the Old City is occupied by such compounds, and our ramparts walk took us around and past many unidentifiable sects.

Danyl and I enjoyed smoking our cuban cigars while atop these ramparts.  I have to say it felt good, like we had in some way conquered the city ourselves and enjoyed a congratulatory smoke while taking in the views.



The ramparts took us along the top of the New Gate, Damascus Gate, Lion Gate and ended at the Gold Gate, just north of the Temple Mount where the Dome of the Rock sits.  At the Damascus gate we saw some of the ongoing repair to these walls.  In a brief yet interesting discussion I learned that the materials used to repair the paving stones that had come loose had to be similar to the existing materials.  Well I'm glad to see this common sense sort of approach is being used to maintain such a magnificent edifice and essential part of history.
Immediately after passing over the Damascus Gate on the central northern section of the walls we happened upon a cave that was once a quarry for the Jerusalem Stone used to build many important buildings in the Old City, potentially including the sacred Temple of Solomon.  This cave is remarkable in that it underpins the very city it was excavated to build.
We ended our walk at the Gold Gate, and wandered through the lavish streets of the Old City until we found ourselves back in the Jewish Quarter for some schwarma lunch.  It was delicious and we relaxed after a long hike up and down on the hard, hard rocks of history.
If you have any questions about the pictures below, please ask in the comments and I will try to address them asap.

Danyl's Getting a closer look.

1 year together

March 10th 2010 Rayna and I went on our first date. It was a magical night and the beginning of our relationship (although both of us were excited about it from the moment we met). Well that was one year ago, so Rayna and I decided to celebrate our anniversary together in style.

We planned out trip with the help of one of the wonderful administrators at HUC. Nancy knows this country very well, and recommended places for us to stay and things to see. She is very sweet and extremely helpful. It is thanks to her we had such a wonderful anniversary place to stay.

Rayna put a lot of though into this weekend, and we came to the conclusion to head South where it is warmer and sunnier at this late winter date. There are a plethora of incredible places to go and things to see in this tiny country, and fear not dear reader, I will take you there as well, but this time we went South to Mahktesh Ramon, the "Grand Canyon" of Israel. (Note the consistent occurrence of comparisons to The States in Israeli life, no coincidence here, we are closely tied)

The plan developed that we should rent a car, and depart as early Thursday as we wanted, with a nice no rush attitude we commenced to sleep in a bit, but the excitement was too much so we were up and renting the car by 9. Thrifty Car Rental is between our apartment and HUC, about 5 minutes walking. So we got ready to walk there and realized it was POURING outside. And cold. Oh no! it looked like our weekend might get rained upon and I have to say it put us off a bit.

But being the intrepid North Westerners that we are we suited up and sallied forth.

I rented the car because non-tourists (read Israelis) have to pay at 17% tax on this sort of thing. Crazy! It took a while to get it all going, then I had to get a ride to the lot to pick up the car, which turns out to be a 5 minute walk away... yeesh. The nice man at the rental lot hooked us up though. I got a brand new Ford Fiesta with 9 km on it. Take care of her was all he said. New car smell and everything... well not when we were done with her.

I picked Rayna and all our gear up, and lo we went forth on the streets of Jerusalem and beyond.  Driving here is just like driving in Boston. The drivers are crazy, the streets are poorly marked, and you have to be aggressive.

Roughly two hours later, we had cleared the rain, but the clouds and wind were still at it. We stopped alongside the road after spotting some sweet looking ruins and a sign for a amphitheater. Pulling in we discovered a site with amazing ruins from the Hellenistic period when Greek lifestyle was influencing the region, and the locals were living in comparable peace. Next to this amphitheater complex was the ruin of a Crusader church. A striking difference in style, need, purpose, and peacefulness, but naturally following some of the same architectural trends.

 

 

 

 

We stopped at the tomb of Ben and Paula Gurion which is located at Ben Gurion University of the Negev.  It is a beautiful site, with a winding walk through a stone sided wadi (riverbed, but this is merely the image here, no water flows through this area) with places to stop and sit, talk, think, learn, and meditate.  The end of the walk is a vista with the two tombs looking out into a wide and deep canyon.  It was peaceful there, and gave us both a moment to pause and appreciate where we were.

 

 

 

 

We proceeded down to Mitzpe Ramon, the town of Ramon, positioned on the lip of the great canyon/crater... Mahktesh as they call it here. Which means a drainage canyon that drains from one source - itself. It is a dry arid place, filled with the beauty you find all over the South West of the US. This place has unusual formation because of the volcanic activity that strained and bent the strata while it formed. We walked along the rim, the wind whipping us and the few other people braving the weather. The clouds cast long shadows on the floor of the canyon below, and the sun lowering in the sky tinging everything orange, red, and pink.

 

 

Before we became too chilled, or it got dark, we headed back North out of town 1/2 hour to Carme Avdat, the vineyard we were to stay at that night. In the bliss of being together, and traveling together, we'd planned much of our weekend as far as activities and destinations went, but somehow managed to skip right over dinner on the night of our anniversary!

Once we arrived at Carme Avdat  it became quite obvious that there would be no dining there, but that was not what was on our mind. The rugged simplistic beauty of the landscape is accentuated by the casual and simple sweetness which which Carme Avdat embraces the land. The drive in passes through the vines, and winds up the valley into the compound of staff quarters, sales tent, production facilities, farming equipment, offices, and above on the hillside the guest cabins. Each cabin sits alone, and is tucked into the hillside and protected by careful landscaping.

Our cabin was the farthest out, peacefully sitting alone in this approaching windy nightfall.

Inside the floor is the first largest shock... it is loose washed riverstone/gravel, at lest 3" deep, and sitting on who knows what! I have never seen an interior finish floor of loose stone like this before, and it is really fun and funky. Charming too, but it raised some immediate maintainence questions for me, like how is it cleaned? What happens to all the crumbs that fall on the floor? I'll have to find out some day.

It was a beautiful cabin in all, very peaceful and fun. Luckily there was a town a 5 min. north where we were able to purchase ingredients for dinner, and we came home and cooked up a feast to share, with a really nice bottle of Tishbi wine. Hopefully we'll get up to the TIshbi vineyard later this year to try more of their appellations.

Breakfast was probably the highlight of the stay though. A cooler full of food was delivered to our porch at 8 AM and the spread was magnificent. Fresh cheese, juices, bread, spreads, salads, cereals, milk, and like I said, espresso made in the cabin.

We loaded back up the rental and decided to taste the rest of the wines from Carme Avdat. A small bottle of their 2008 Merlot comes with the room, however we wanted to try more. We ended up with a bottle of קמד, an appellation specific to Carme Avdat as far as I know.

From Carme Avdat we head south into the crater proper for a couple of hikes. First to the "Carpentry" where volcanic action has created prismatic shaped stones uplifting into the basin and exposed from the erosion. These volcanic rocks are much harder than the surrounding soil and limestone so they are now visible in a large hill. It is very cool how the sides and ends of the rocks form geometric patterns.

Next we hiked in a "wadi" or dry river bed. Much like the drainage basins in the South West of the states these can flood very quickly so we made sure there was zero chance of rain. The wadi has exposed incredibly colored sedimentary layers where the water has carved out a wall in the desert. Pinks, reds, blues, greens, the whole rainbow. It was a very memorable hike and we took time to climb on the rocks and remember that we were there celebrating a year together. It felt momentous and wonderful.

From there we continued south out of the canyon through the negev. It is a dry, sparse, beautiful terrain. Rolling hills, sharp cliffs, deep and box canyons everywhere all exciting an idea of exploration. Mystery behind every curving terrain, begging the question, what lies beyond. Perhaps a cache of unknown documents, preserved in this dry desert climate explaining the prevalent mystery being surrounded by this much history elicits.

We drove South then East, heading towards the border with Jordan. When we arrived at Kibbutz Lotan the sun was nearing the horizon. We checked in, dropped our bags off in our room and went out to walk around. Rayna had been to Lotan a few weeks before with her school and wanted to take me there ever since. I know why now.

Lotan is an Eco Kibbutz located in a part of the desert that no one wants. It is an oven in the summer and an oven on low in the winter. It never rains. It is starkly beautiful, with cliffs to the West, Jordan to the East, the Dead Sea to the North, and surrounded by desert.

I was told this site was chosen for political sustainability. Since no one ever wanted this land it has never been contested. Since then their sustainability scope has expanded to include the built environment, water resources, energy, waste, and agriculture.

The desert conditions make building there very tricky. Keeping cool without burring through crazy amounts of energy is very difficult. The mean radiant temperature inside there is 31º C in the summer. That means that in complete shade, with a breeze, it's HOT. I met and spoke at length with Alex, the most knowledgable person I have met in Israel regarding sustainable architecture. He seems to be in charge of their building program and is responsible for some amazing housing "igloos" made of geodesic framework and straw bale. They have small windows with exterior blinds, and interior reflectors and insulators for the heat of the day.

 

Despite all the passive systems they have enacted these spaces still require some air conditioning. It is a valiant attempt and wonderful example of sustainable solutions. Here's to the future and hoping that the innovations of Lotan can help teach other people all over. I forgot to mention to Alex the wonderful work of Nader Kalili at the Cal Earth Institute in the scorching desert of southern California. I am guessing he's already heard of him.

After a wonderful shabbat evening and a great night's sleep at Lotan we woke up and explored the campus once more, examining all the architecture and amazing landscaping. Lotan is a birders paradise too. So many amazing chirps, whistles and calls, and beautiful flitting shapes.

After a great breakfast and last look around we went back up the desert to Maktash Ramon for our last hike. This time we drove off the main road to a Bedouin encampment for some of their famous tea. From there it was a short drive to a hike into the Eastern end of the canyon. We hiked up to a large hill that gives a 360º panoramic view of the walls and depths of this natural wonder. The view was epic. Clouds rolling above, thinly veiling the strong desert sun. This wispy light gave extra texture and dimension to a already staggering and dimension defying landscape.

The drive home to Jerusalem offered one more adventure. At one point on the main highway we made a wrong turn at a roundabout. There were few signs and nothing to indicate a wrong or right turn. Before we knew it we had crossed from the Western third of the country to the far Eastern edge. That is how small this country is, and how desert driving can be. No points of reference, no landmarks, nothing even to indicate how fast or how far you are going. By the time we could figure out where we were the sun was beginning to set. Se we decided to accept our fate and take the new route being offered to us, instead of getting back on our planned route. This would take us down to the Dead Sea, and then North along her Western shore up into the West Bank, then back West to Jerusalem.

And what a beautiful mistake it was. The sun lit the mountains of Jordan with an amber intensity, highlighting the pale blue of the salty waters below. We descended rapidly from the desert lower into the basin of the sea. As we drove lower the limb of the setting sun disappeared and we dropped into the shadow of the canyon. Driving north we were treated to the darkening reds of the mountains to our right, and the silhouetted of the mountains and Massada to our left.

Night fell and we saw the lights of Jericho to the North. Driving back West into Jerusalem we passed through the security checkpoints with no more than a glance. We dropped back into know territory easily, following the signs to the Center.

In all it was a beautiful weekend, one I will never forget.


Thanks for reading and see you again soon!

Location:ז'בוטינסקי,Jerusalem,Israel

 

A view from above: Ramparts and crazy humans

Monday morning, Rosh Chodesh, the beginning of the new month in Israel. Adar II because Israel is on the lunar cycle, every few years we have a leap month, thus the "II" for Adar. This is also the month of Purim, which is one of the biggest and most fun holidays/festivals in the Jewish world. I'll tell you more about it as it approaches and I celebrate Israel style, but for now just keep in mind it is nigh.

To celebrate Rosh Chodesh (literally head of the month) Rayna has been participating in a group called Women of the Wall. The Wall refers to the Kotel or Western or Wailing Wall. The most sacred spot we've got. I'm not going to give this issue enough credit here because it's a biggie but I will sum up. Israel is governed by a democracy that is heavily influenced by Orthodox religious peoples. I am not educated enough to explain this in detail but things like the Wall, and funds for religious organizations are controlled by this power bloc. Because of this the rules enforced at the wall follow the orthodoxy. And that includes different rules and separation for men and women. There is a screen wall that divides the plaza directly in front of the Wall into two UNEQUAL areas for men and women. Can you guess who gets the smaller area?

You're right. Sorry ladies, this isn't the future yet.

Because of this GROSS inequality and blatant bigotry and sexism an incredibly peaceful and beautiful group has evolved. They are the Women of the Wall. Every month at Rosh Chodesh they arrive em mass. They have taken the gains achieved thus far, and work within these limits peacefully. This includes entering the Wall area without yarmekules on, so they must be secreted about their persons. Without Talit (the prayer shawl worn by jews during prayer) worn in the traditional way, they must be worn as scarves. And in no way are they to carry or read from a Torah.

None of these limitations are pressed onto the men who come to worship. They may do as they please. And in this most holy place they pray devoutly, intensely, generously teaching others, and for long periods. They cover their heads and shoulders in Talit, they wear head coverings specific to their sect, they wrap teffilin and daven ferociously.

The Women of the Wall enter the women's side and huddle together at the rear of the prayer area, preparing for an outlawed and controversial act: they are about to pray as a group - out loud.

Beautiful voices begin to rise, the light of sanctity shining from their faces as the sun crests the high wall casting the first rays of this new month on this sacred space. Soft peaceful sounds, respectful, elegant, and welcoming.

This act of prayer is met with the most reproachful acts of childish and immature behavior you can imagine in a space that is supposedly the most sacred space to the very actors protesting the Women's peaceful prayer. Spitting, shushing, yelling, and in the past months name calling and aggressive posturing.

I stand on the Men's side of the partition, in the corner closest to the Women. Soldiers line the fence. 3 or 4, but their numbers grow as the Women begin praying. There are soldiers and police on their side too, and at the fence above the prayer area in front of the wall. These women are expected and protected. I wonder if it is for the safety of the women, or as a self limitation for the reactors a la "don't hold me back" when you know you must not act.

The soldiers stand at the fence, and myself and a few other men who are there with and in support of the women act as a buffer between the rest of the men praying and the soldiers.

A crowd of ultra-orthodox gather a few feet away from us, praying to the wall, and casting glances towards the Women as they begin their service in earnest. It is hard to hear the Women at all, in the thrum of activity already happening at the wall just past sunrise. But that becomes too much for these "men" to bear and they begin to retaliate.

I was a bit nervous about how this would go down. I am confident there will be no physical response, but I have heard that the yelling and castigation can become intense. But it never does. The men, in a childish display of impotence decide they must drown out the Women by praying louder and louder, shouting their prayers, and defiling the peacefulness of this sacred space.

I stood there, as the sun shone down on my countenance, warming my body and soul as it should, smiling. The men, protesting this act of beautiful prayer by praying! As boisterously as possible, but in the end, just praying! It was gleeful, and wild, a pulsing call and response of the almightiest devotions to a God without ears. A God who to me hears the prayers not in voice but in your heart. It was an act of a play that has been performed over and over again in the struggles of people, of men and women, of oppressors and oppressed, throughout history. But it was peaceful. A battle of prayers.

A fine gentleman who is the father of one of the Women, and the husband of another, and who is a Rabbi in NY joined us and brought me and Danyl (one of Rayna's classmates fiancé) prayer books. He has an awesome bushy white beard and hair, and eyebrows of a wizard. He helped us find the place in the books the Women's service had reached and we began praying along. More men joined us, significant others of this praying group of women, and more soldiers to keep the peace.

As the service wrapped up the soldiers told us they were going to escort us out of the prayer area to the plaza. And this is the only moment where I felt uncomfortable. I didn't feel like I needed an escort but who am I to argue. We left as peacefully as we arrived, and proceeded to another area at the Temple mount where the Women of the Wall are permitted to read from Torah.

This is a perfect example of something i will never understand. For all the good and beauty that religion brings to the world, how can belief like this that limits one group of the population from participating be right? Hopefully I will have a better understanding of this as my time here continues, and I will be able to cast more light on this issue. Until then, I will continue to do what I do best in these situations. Support, smile, enjoy, and move forward. I hope that my smile and earnest thoughts and prayers of the wall Monday morning were absorbed by the orthodox protestors, and that they will continue to evolve and realize that their position is improved when they participate in improving the positions of others.

Breakfast was an indulgence after that experience. At Marzipan in Mamilla mall, just outside Jaffa gate. I had an almond croissant that had been filled with chocolate.... YES. OMG. So good. I also had a mocha, and half a sandwich. I needed energy because the ladies were departing for school, and Danyl and I were to walk the ramparts.

This post has already gotten too long, so I will have to add more later, including pictures.

All the best to you on this new month.

- with Shalom from Israel

Location:ז'בוטינסקי,Jerusalem,Israel

While Rayna's at school, I'm...

Sunday is Monday. with all that entails, as you can imagine. Rayna's longest day at school, everyone is back to work, it's lovely. I get down to the task at hand (other than writing all of you) which in this case is learning Hebrew. There are a few other sundry tasks that i attend, finding a capoeira group (I think I have, but they are Abada so we'll see how it goes), finding some Krav Maga classes, and getting things set up for my return. I want to have a job in NYC next fall all lined up before I arrive, so as an architect there is a lot of front end research and work to getting myself ready for that. I'll keep you posted on that but for now, I want to be able to talk to people here without having to ask them right off the bat if they speak English.

Perhaps the most important thing I've brought with me is the Pimsler learning system Carmin and my Dad gave me before I left. It's a nifty little SD card reader and three SD cards full of Hebrew lessons. You pop in a card, your headphones and just follow along speaking. I do it everywhere and I am sure I look and sound ridiculous. "Pardon me, do you want to drink a little something?" Yes thank you.

It is very convenient and easy for me, and I find myself learning rapidly. I have already had a few cool interactions and a few that could be better. INcluding asking a man if he wanted my bottle for the refund in the feminine yesterday. He was very friendly in correcting me.

So i took my lessons mobile on Sunday, walking to SuperSol the grocery store nearby. I responded to the internally provided questions all up and down the streets of Jerusalem, answering everyone within earshot that yes, I do want to eat something at their house, and hoping that people assume I'm just on the phone, not crazy or worse.

It was mostly a success, but I did require the assistance of an English speaker once and a fellow customer hooked me up.

I brought home the goods and when Rayna got home I cooked up a delicious meal of Chicken with a Zatar rub, broiled on the bone, and a lentil rice mix we bought at the Shuk. I'll add some veggies next time.

Rayna's been interviewing this week after school with Synagogues back home. Due to the time difference all the interviews are in our evening and their mornings. She was pretty nervous but knocked them out of the park. She's a natural.

I keep falling asleep early at nights, and since she needs our room for her interviews I did so on the couch Sunday night. I guess you could say I'm feeling right at home. Best to you all back home too.

Eli


- with Shalom from Israel

Location:ז'בוטינסקי,Jerusalem,Israel

My first Shabbat in Jerusalem (of this trip!)

Shabbat comes to Jerusalem in silence. The day dawns slower, peace flowing in waves of light over the land. Birds fly slower and sing softer, the leaves of trees dancing to a rhythm at ease in this intense land.

Of course that's not true, it is poetic license, but that is how it feels. Because Shabbat is a thing here. It is an action based on a belief that is shared by the vast majority of the population in Jerusalem. Action equaling inaction, a choice to take a day off from what we call life. Oh yes, I have learned much on this first Shabbat of my trip, and I have a feeling I will be learning more each Friday as the sun makes it's circut across the sky.

Shabbat begins as a religious expression at sundown, marked by 3 stars visible in the sky, but the affect begins at dawn on Friday.

Since most commerce shuts down with the sun on Friday evening, there is much preparation before this, so that everything is satisfied before Shabbat officially begins. You must purchase your staples and specials, you must run your errands, and mail your letters, make your plans and prepare yourself for the more than 24 hours of inaction that follows.

I woke up later this fine shabbat morning that I had yet, and in doing opened my eyes unto a peaceful plane. The light was seeping in gently, the noisome traffic was diminished, yet there was a peaceful stir to the place. I took my time, gently awakening my senses to this next new experience. Rayna and I got up and smiled all the way out. It is an intention. It is set upon deciding to dwell here and renewed every week when the day arrives. It is peace internal and mirrored by a world in agreement with this choice. To oppose, to make the choice to not observe Shabbat in at least this peaceful countenance is to run ragged against yourself, to counter peace overwhelming with grinding gears of impatience and rush. I won't find out personally what that feels like because I will be going with this. I will let it take me slowly into peace.

Rayna and I walked into the commercial center and met Marissa, one of Rayna's close new friends here in Israel. She's not an HUC student, but she is a student here, which seems to be the most common occupation in Jerusalem... like an entire city dedicated to study, and almost always study of belief in some form. What an amazing place.

Rayna, Eliana (our roommate) and I walked to the central post office to mail some stuff and pay the electric bill. You take a number then wait. Much more civilized than waiting in line. It took a spell which was great because by the time we were done we were hungry.

We ate at an awesome breakfast joint that remeinded me of a New York cafe. Incredible baked goods spilling off the counters; strudels, loafs, sweets, something delicious and cinnamon sweet called Babka... and fresh squeezed orange juice. Ok, this is something of a personal tradition. I LOVE fresh squeezed OJ, and thank goodness, it seems to follow me around when I travel. Bolivia - OJ and Grapefruit jice carts on every corner. Israel - Fresh juice everywhere, in ever restaurant, at HUC in the student area, in every shuk,everywhere. I read that Israel once bought a huge Russion compound in Jerusalem for oranges. I guess it's an important crop here.

Once i figure out the name of the breakfast spot ( It's Kodesh!) I'll put it in here because it was GOOD. Although what I ordered wasn't what I expected, it was still good. There is also excellent espresso here. This is how I am beating jet lag.

After breakfast we came home and just relaxed until it was time to go meet the rest of the HUC students going to Shabbat services at Tsur Hadassa, a small town with a Reform congregation about 1/2 an hour south of Jerusalem. The Reform Movement has just gained recognition here and is not funded the same way as orthodox congregations in Israel. Tsur Hadassa has a very modest and simple pre-fabricated building in a small town in the rolling hills of this beautiful country. I was shocked to see such a modest structure that is a synagogue. As an American I consistently and wrongly expect all houses of worship to be opulent beautiful places, but that is not the norm here. Religion is integrated into life here in a way that it is not in America. It is a common part of life, more like a community center, where people go regularly. The kids know it personally, and run about playing and exclaiming with abandon. the congregants talk to each other easily and without care. There is no feeling of this being a ritual, or a special occasion. It is part of life, and there is no pretense for being at services, it is simply the place everyone goes because there is no reason to be anywhere else.

It is beautiful and foreign, it makes my mind wander and pulse in a mockery of understanding because it is SO different from what I know. A young girl sat next to me. She speaks some english and her friend a young boy, probably a Bar Mitzvah already so hardly a boy anymore, sits benind me. They are not reserved, they are not ushered into seats or even into the synagogue, it is theirs. They help me. Their names do not fit my tongue or memory, I have trouble even hearing them amid the attempts to understand what I am experiencing. I wish i could write them here now because I remember what the boy's name means "an Island with a tree on it." Yea, that is cool. He told me quite directly "you can speak English to me" and I couldn't even count to 5 in Hebrew. Confidence, assuredness and ease emanate from these people, and welcome. Rayna sings at Tsur Hadassa as part of her program but she, as always, has become a part of these people's hearts and lives. She is a winged angel of song, landing ever peacefully, adding her notes of beauty, and giving joy and peace with her voice. I watched in amazement, feeling the casualness with which everyone participated in this ritual of thanks, of prayer, of community and I grew frustrated.

I began to ask myself why I am making these Hebrew sounds and reading along as best I could (the girl to my right helping me find my place over and over and over again) to prayers and words i don't understand! I felt some shame at trying, at pretending, and chameloning in as I know I can, but lacking the meaning. I know many of the Shabbat prayers by heart, but of sound only, not of what the words mean, not even of what the words are. Some I know of course... the Shema, the blessings over wine, bread, and light. But so many others I have no idea. It does not feel right to be joining in such beautiful company as a charlatan.

As I sat there growing more and more inwardly upset with myself, I remembered some passages from a book I had read in our down time that afternoon. It is an amazing book "The Routledge Atals of the Arab-Israeli Conflict" by Martin Gilbert. Maps showing history, and facts staring you in the face. Facts began to come to my mind, just words "Town destroyed 16 killed some tortured" and images, supplied by yours truly... I began to get hot, uncomfortable and upset. This beautiful service, my heart began to weep, the people of this region, my ancestors, strangers, arab families, foreign invaders, jews, people everywhere capable of such peaceful intentions. All at risk and on constant alert for their lives to be upheaved into chaos. This small town sitting on the rubble of a history that bears the wounds of torture and death, and me, sitting there pretending.

I can't take it any more. I decided then and there that until I know the Hebrew words I will do my praying in English. I will not affront this critical honesty and openness with the appearance of community. This place is so very real, I will return that as best I can, every day.

Shabbat brought peace into my heart through anger and frustration, it brough me to an edge from which I saw the true depths to which we humans have descended and I now take this step onto the ethereal stair that lifts us above through faith and belief. Not in something imaginary or antiquuated, but in the real true acts of living day to day by a set of standards and an established rule of self.

God is a word that describes something human. A belief in order from chaos, a belief in making that brings us out of chaos. I hope I don't sound like I am preaching in any way. This is a personal belief that shapes my understanding of what I see around me. God does not sit in a chair or live in a house. God is not offended by me typing the letter G O and D in succession. God is Universe and we are his angels and daemons. The actions and commandments passed down through history are an attempt at making this world better, safer, more peaceful and beautiful for everyone.

Shabbat services ended and our group split up and Rayna Mandy and I went to dinner with a lovely family from Tsur Hadasa. We ate a delicious meal at their house and talked about so much. I was still feeling a bit strange after such an intense week of learning, adapting and jet lag plus the emotions turmoil from services that I was perhaps quieter than normal. As the evening ended we said fond goodbyes, and hope to see their family again soon. We met the rest of the students after their home cooked meals at the bus and rode back to HUC together. weariness overcame me and I slept walked home with Rayna. We watched the first part of a movie but I could not keep my eyes open, adn I feel asleep to the confines of my own mind, dreaming through the experiences of the day. My first Shabbat back in Jerusalem, and my own emotions and insights crystalizing in hopes that they would awaken transformed as I.

Saturday Morning, Services and smiles.

Rayna was taking part in the Saturday Morning Shabbat services at HUC, chanting Torah (are you picking up on the theme here? She is INVOLVED) and invited me to do an Aliya. I was nervous as I approached the bima and chanted the blessing before and after the Torah is read. It felt good. It felt joyous in that synagogue. I read from the prayer book that provides both English and Hebrew, and as I said each prayer in Hebrew I read the English and understood for myself what I meant.

Bring us peace, bring us healing, bring us understaning of the world through stories, through strange and seemingly mundane details. Is asking for healing, for peace, for understaning the same as finding it? No, of course not, but how can you find it without first seeking?

Shabbat ended as peacefully as it began. After services we came home and relaxed until Havdallah, back at HUC. We took our time getting there, taking a route through a park across the street from our apartment which led us down stairs into a beautiful neighborhood that is an artists colony. I will go back and take pictures later to share with you. We then found our way towards HUC through a park, to a hilltop whereupon I realized I'd been there before. On my very first night in Israel back in 1994, our safri group gathered there and celebrated Shabbat with a view of the Old City, and wonder on our faces.

Havdallah is a beautiful services celebrating the joys of life and the peace granted after Shabbat. Rayna's voice again like a balm to my soul, to the world at large. I swear, she makes apples smile and doves weep with hope. She sings with the voice of her community, her breath and their voices, strumming our soules awake to the beautiful world around us.

Afterwards we walked south to Emek Refiem to a large Reform Synagogue for a community auction. It was very fun, and I won an auction on a Cuban cigar... the story is actually funnier than that... i was in a silent bidding war with a congregation member... with 30 seconds left i walked up to make a final bid, writing so slowly and carefully so that I would be last. in true Israeli fashion he reached ACROSS the table and wrote as I was writing UPSIDE down a higher bid. I hadn't even written my bid yet! But I knew he wanted them much more than I so i laughed and conceded. We shook hands, and as soon as it was confirmed he won he opened the box and gave me one of the five cigars. That's what I call winning an auction. One for free, and a friendly experience.

Rayna and I speed walked home so she could finish her Hebrew homework, and I laid in bed and feel asleep remembering... Shabbat in Israel. Peace to you all.

Thursday = Friday

Woke up early again and got to watch some of the Blazer game!  Streaming is difficult now because my favorite site went down a while ago, and the other one seems to have gone private... maybe time to buy the KGW games?  It's great watching them here, though the 5 AM tipoff will make it hard now that my jet lag is gone.  But Thursday morning it was still there, and I lay in bed and watched until Rayna got up too and the day began in earnest.

I joined Rayna at my first T'fila (a prayer service) at HUC which is an incredibly beautiful service led by students.  The sanctuary is a very simple space with a tremendous ark whose doors are made of solid marble 2" thick.  The service leaders stand back away from the ark in between two areas of seating that face each other parallel to the long axis of the chapel.  Try picturing a normal religious space with rows of seating perpendicular to the aisle like any church or synagogue you see on tv... now rotate the seating so that you face the aisle!  There are rows of seating towards the back that face the ark, but most people sit facing each other.  And the people leading service stand amongst everyone.  It is much more intimate and communal feeling.  Everyone participates and the score of rabbinical and cantorial students make for an incredible immersive experience.  Rayna is truly in her element here and joined in with the beautiful voice and enthusiasm she brings to her training and spiritual existence.

After service Rayna had a full day of classes so I embarked on a personal adventure to explore the Old City on my own, and to learn more Hebrew through the fantastic audio lessons that Carmin (my step mom) and and my Dad gave to me last year.  I walk the streets approaching the Old City from HUC with my earbuds in diligently repeating the Hebrew phrases... and I definitely get some strange looks and a few laughs.

I walked through Mamilla mall which is a brand new very high end mall that connects some major streets (one of those being the street HUC (Rayna's school) is on) to the Jaffa gate.  It's a strange experience walking through this modern space of commerce to the ancient gate of the Old City.  But what's strangest of all is that it feels right in some critical ways.


Mamilla mall is an open air pedestrian walk with fancy stores and restaurants on each side.  Addidas, The North Face, fine art galleries, high end fashion (local and international) boutiques etc... line both sides with a few open areas that provide amazing vistas to the city of Jerusalem and the beautiful valleys and rolling hills nearby.  Walking through it I get the feeling this use is nothing new.  Perhaps never in this exact spot but an open air market with stalls and shops, money changing, wares being hawked, art, people watching... this is what h as been happening here for THOUSANDS of years.  Of course the scale and products have mostly changed, but it feels unnaturally natural.  Like diet cola.


Walking down this mall puts you on a plaza right outside of Jaffa gate.  People gather here for tours, to take pictures, to eat some treats from the mall, and just to sit and stare.  Which I did.  All of that.  I ate a snack (Israel has amazing bakeries everywhere), I listened in to a tour being given in english, I took some pictures, and I sat.  I sat and stared in wonder at the Citadel of David, and at Jaffa gate.  It feels strange to be able to just walk through the gate without a ticket, or a wristband, or something.  It's like Disney world for history and religion.  And it's free, open to the public (assuming you can get into the country) and real.  It's amazing and mysterious.


There was a woman there taking pictures on a large format camera.  I have been having trouble with a spot on my photos so I asked her if she knew of a photo shop.  She told me of one on Yaffa street... I have learned enough Hebrew already to ask her if she spoke English, which of course, she did.  Everyone here does.  Disney, I'm telling you.  This factors in later, but it felt good, like I'm getting to know this place personally enough to get directions and talk to strangers.


I took some photos of the gate, of the pigeons flying about, of the stones... but there's just too much to capture.  Each part of Jerusalem is photogenic and tells a story.  Good or bad, it is imbued with history and character like layers of paint in a masterpiece capturing light, infusing with color and meaning, wrapping the mind, pulling your vision in deeper and deeper through history.  I fell through the gate, like water through a drain, pulled into the city to wander.


I wandered left and down, through the Christian quarter, past small alleys and openings to headquarters of unknowable organizations.  Religions symbols adorning ancient stones whose meaning is lost to me, and perhaps to the ages.  I fell down through the layers of time and history.  Like eras of conquering forces, Roman sects, Greek orders, Armenian brotherhoods, Coptic, Ottoman, Arab, till I found myself surrounded by the smells and sounds of a dark and lively marketplace.  This is the Arab market or shuk which consists of stores of incredible variety.  Including Judaica and Christianica(?), goods durable and soft, and food galore.  Candy, spices, bakeries, drinks, junk food, raw ingredients and MEAT.  Halal butchers with entire butchered animals hanging, huge hocks, and unidentifiable sections of meat.  Blood draining down the stones into gutters, washed by the men working here, eagerly welcoming in customers.


I didn't linger.  It is a strange experience.  Not unwelcome but not altogether comfortable.  I sought the open areas of the city again.  those bathed in the strong sunlight of this high country.  Down a long dark alley I spotted stairs to discover I was fooled by a large metal overhead door whose sections looked like the faces of stone risers.  A forced right, back up another alley with more of the endless shops... sunlight growing stronger here, a face of a building bathed in light, always turning towards greater open air I finally found my way out of the labyrinth of that commercial chasm.


And into the light and clatter of another spectacle.  I'd stumbled onto the courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.  This center of Christianity couldn't be more baffling.  A glaring opposite of the grand churches and courts of Rome or Paris, England or even the US this relic sits in a tight irregular rectangle of space off center on it's primary elevation, looking uncomfortable and squashed into this shoebox of a quadrangle.  I'd promised Rayna that we'd see it together so I lingered for only a moment and began my wanderings again.  I'll be back to let that old gal tease me with her potential soon.


I wondered further, to the viewing platform of the Kotel, and back up the steps to Kikar Hurva where a massive new beautiful Ramban Synagogue sits.  Built on the site of the most impressive and largest synagogue of the ages (Synagogue, not Temple) that was destroyed during an occupation, this edifice is a statement of permanence and perseverance.  Rayna and I will get a tour some day.


I can only handle so much intense sensory information in one wandering so I decided to head for the camera shop the nice lady had told me about.  I tried to head for the Damascus Gate on the north side of the old city, but got lost in the narrow winding alleys of the market and Christian quarter.  After many wrong turns and dead ends to which I was delighted to encounter, I found myself at the New Gate built in the 1880s, and exited the Old City for the airy spaciousness of new Jerusalem.


I found myself on the tracks of the brand new Light Rail line that goes up Yaffa Street, so I went in search of the store I'd been told of.  I never found it but did find a Photo shop who directed me to a Photo lab!  Super friendly and competent, they took my camera and told me to come back in an hour and they would have my chip and optics cleaned.  Naturally I asked for a recommendation for lunch, Schwarma to be specific!  And they came through nicely.  One full belly and a shot of espresso later I was back and picked up my camera.  Of course as Israelis they wouldn't let me take the camera without first double checking it was properly serviced.  So I took the extra couple of minutes to ask them for more info.  I love the way Israelis talk and relate.  So direct and matter of fact, but always professional.


By now it was time to meet Rayna at home so I walked from Ben Yehuda/Yaffa back through the streets to our apartment.  I was pretty worn out but I'll tell you, one shot of espresso and I was good to go!


Rayna came  home and we split for a birthday dinner in the Emek Rafaim neighborhood just south of where we live.  It's a super cool and fun place, like 21st. Ave in Portland, or Shadyside in Pittsburgh.  Lots of shops and restaurants, and people walking everywhere.  We had a lovely group dinner, bought some treats for Shabbat the next night, and walked home.  After a short stop at home we headed out again to a bar up by Ben Yehuda where we met some of Rayna's classmates and associated friends.  I met a guy named Adam (one of Rayna's classmates boy friend) who is getting his masters in religious literature at Hebrew University.  What an interesting person to talk to, and to answer some of the many thousands of questions occurring to me with every turn of the road here in this mystical and complex place.


It was my first night out and really fun.  We sat outside a bar and I had two Goldstar beers.  It's the local brew, and tasted just right after a long day of wandering, sun, talking and thinking.

Day 3: The Shuk

Rayna had class today, so I went with her to school and gave myself time to get oriented even more, and do some research!  I hung out in the library on HUC's campus using the internet to find some capoeira (not too successful yet... Capoeira is everywhere, but good capoeira (Regional especially) is hard to find.. the search continues) and some Krav Maga classes.  Both are still eluding me.  If anyone reading this knows about either near the old city let me know!!!!

Rayna and I shared lunch in the M'od (it's the student lounge) on campus, and I wandered a bit more while she finished classes.  HUC is a beautiful campus with incredible views to the Old City and the Citadel of David, Mt. Olives, and the various historical and modern architecture on the hills to the East.  I finished Amos Elon's Jerusalm City of Mirrors, sitting in the Jerusalem sun on HUC's campus.  Felt quite fitting, and it's a wonderful read (and it was my Grandpa Moshe's book - he lived here, grew up here, and passed away this fall, so it was quite fitting and good feeling to finish this book here).

When Rayna was done she came home to find a napping Eli, and man was I out!  Somehow she roused me and we got equipped to go to the Shuk.  It's the big open air/enclosed marketplace where you can get everything ala the markets everywhere in the world other than the USA.  We have malls and Fred Meyers, and Shopping Centers... I much prefer markets.  There are some really incredible shops here, from fine cheese and wines, to dried everythings, to bakeries, to fruit and vegetable stands, to the kitchen and home supply slots.  I dragged the Shuk Cart around and we filled with with spices and seasonings, fruits, breads and baked goods, cheese and milk and who knows what.  We took the bus there and back and just FYI, busses are one of those awesome universal things.  Great bus system here.

Once home Rayna made a wonderful Hummus Basar (that's meat cooked and served on a plate with hummus and olive oil that you eat with bread) seasoned with Zatar (thyme and sesame).  I made salad and I think I fell asleep while eating.  I had come home for a nap earlier and had never truly woken all the way up.  The Jet Lag is strong here.  So I fell asleep early yet again, while Rayna studied.  I keep doing that and waking up early.... early enough to watch the Blazer game!!!!  I can stream it here live if I find a good site.  So go Blazers, but please, Jet Lag, let me go so I can sleep in past 5 am tomorrow.

Settling in, getting oriented - keeping this brief

Rayna in all her grace planned ahead to skip class the next day.  What a great gal, and an amazing girlfriend.  We had an excellent breakfast at Cup 'o Joe downstairs from our apartment (Israeli breakfast is salad, eggs, coffee and juice, and some 'sauces' which can be guacamole, tahina, tuna, or something else that fits in a little dish, toast and sunshine).  We took our time and talked, Rayna helping me get oriented, and me operating at about 85% due to jet lag.  After we walked to her school (it's about 10 min. or less walk from our apt.) and met with Nancy who is saintly and so welcoming.  She helped us plan our upcoming anniversary trip, and get me some options for hebrew lessons etc.  Everyone at HUC is so friendly and helpful.  I met a ton of other students, got the official tour, and had some moments...

I've been here before.  yes.  I was 16 going on 17, here with NFTY for a summer safari, so eager so excited... i celebrated my birthday somewhere here... courtyards surrounded by buildings, filled with flashes of memory, shafts of light through the trellis, a memory of photos, of taking photos, of reliving through shared remembrances years later with friends, and now back, in a flash... I've been here before.

Yes, right here!  The Persian Gardens, a spiral fountain, here a memory a picture in my mind of myself taking a photo down this long fountain, an evening in 1994 with new friends and wild new excitement and places all over again!  Like echoes of your own heartbeat in the grand canyon, thundering back to me I am transfixed in time.  Spiraled back upon my dearest memories.  Safari 14 here with me again.  My how the mind works and memory beckons like a dark forest path, light at the end and sounds all around.

I had an hour while Rayna had a meeting at lunch (the one thing she couldn't skip :) ) where I explored and discovered this place.  I met so many wonderful people.  Friends I hadn't met yet but they knew me through Rayna, and I knew them through her as well.  Wonderful people full of hope and life, engaged in a learning that is both mystic and practical, leading the world through learning the past.  More on that later I'm sure.

After Rayna's meeting we walked to the old city of Jerusalem.  The city of legend, the city of walls and wars.  A city of peace enmeshed in violent struggle, a city of such dynamic tensions and of ancient repose.  It beckoned like a bell tolling at frequencies only felt by the soul, pulling us in.  Jerusalem will fill this blog with simile, metaphor, experience, stories, magic, wonder, sadness, hope, history, alarm, excitement, shame, fear, bliss, ecstasy, more than I can give you now.  Those entries will come later I hope, this is no promise, but I can tell you I know this now from my first experience there.  All the emotions I know become her.  Wrapped up in layers, in endless details, in simple untouchable truths, in unbelievable irrational, Jerusalem beckons.  She is eternal as the sand on a beach.  She is fragile and changing as the endless dreams of the clouds.  She is beautiful and terrible soaked in blood and sunlight. Filled with beautiful sights, smells, sounds, and souls.  She is graceful and stocky.  She is all and naught. Hope and endless, eternal waiting.

We walked her streets, saw the wares hawked, tasted the treats and spoke to the locals.  We walled ourselves off in solemnity as we placed our hands on her walls.  On The Wall.  I opened myself to the divine, and found questions.  More questions, and now answers, just questions and beliefs.  I will tell you more when the time is right.  Not now.  We left The Wall and walked the ramparts back towards the Jaffa Gate (that's on the Western side, right in the middle, in plain view of Rayna's school... what a place!).  We left the old city, and entered back into the new, my weariness returning, we went home.

Dinner was simple and wonderful, Rayna made chili and rice and we had a glass of wine at Rayna's (and now my) dear friends Susie and Mandy's apartment.  Then we came home and I once again entered the sleep of the jet lagged, crushing powerful deep sleep....  with not tests on my mind, or worries in my soul.  It's good to be here.  It's great to be here with Rayna.

March 3rd, Settling in

Greetings everyone, as my inaugural post I will take a few steps back to get you all up to date.

I arrived in Israel on february 28th, after leaving Portland on the 27th and flying through Toronto, and Vienna, and into Tel Aviv. It was a long process, but not as long or difficult as getting ready for this trip. That alone deserves a post and perhaps I'll get to it, but to sum it up I finished taking my ARE exams about a week before my departure, and spent the intervening time packing my house, seeing friends and saying goodbye to Tsuki. Yes, it takes a week to say goodbye to my dog for three months. Don't get me started, she's the best.

I have some truly amazing friends and family in Portland, and this post is dedicated to you. Thank you all, and a special thanks to my friends and family who are helping me try to rent my house for a couple of months while I am gone. I am keeping my fingers crossed!

So that's how it goes... work work work, then hop on a plane at an ungodly hour and wake up somewhere... else. Like Dorthy, I was whisked away, wrought by winds of an unnatural nature, spiraling elsewhere into a foreign land, with hopes, dreams, fears, and excitement twisting my inner self into a web or tangled jet lagged miasm that led me anew into a strange and familiar land.

I fell asleep at the gate in Portland, after setting alarm after alarm to avoid just that fate, and was awakend by a gate attendant asking me if I was on this flight... the gate area now empty but for the two of us, I rushed alarmed down the jetway. A shaky start to a time addled journey but yes, I was off. All aboard, the journey began. Sleeping awake, my intercontinental fate, I wove myself through foreign lands and airports, through red-eyes and gates to this final destination that is my long awaited fate.

Tel-Aviv airport, I'd been here before. 17 years ago when I was 17 years old. A time of transformation, a time of discovery. Self awakening, or was it just teenage change? It doesn't matter, it's baked into who I am now, and who I've become to bring me back here, all this way through all those years. It is a new Eli who stepped off that plane and into the mele of Israeli customs (cultural and official airport kind). So I landed, and waited, and slid on through, received my bag and walked through the doors into....

Bright shining light

Strange sounds and smells

Warm sunny air

and Rayna sailing towards me

gliding across the floor arms outstretched

her excitement buoying my weariness as it all came thundering back

the world, the newness, the excitement, the joy

the reunion of my love and myself

the gulag of our distance

over and done

together again at last

In an instant, in a heartbeat our eyes meeting (not through the false lense of skype, or the tin of long distance) our arms hugging, reality crashing together in a hammer of hearts and love. This is how reunions should be. She slid across the slick Jerusalem stone floor in her Israel bought boots, joy on her face and anticipation giving way to glee. I'd arrived.

The rest of the day was a mix of reality checks, drowsieness, elation, and fatigue.  We took a sheroot to our apartment, got in, unpacked (like really quickly, I think I packed light), rested and refreshed, and walked into town for dinner.  Rayna took me out to dinner at T'mol Shilshom (bookstore and cafe and delicious!) and walked back to our apartment where I fell asleep exhausted.  Sleeping after a journey through space and time like that tripple jump I'd accomplished is one way to get a good night's sleep.